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What handles do you use for flying a rev2? The original 9" or the new 13" handles?

Cheers

Mario

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What handles do you use for flying a rev2? The original 9" or the new 13" handles?

Cheers

Mario

You can use either or I have found with the longer handles on a Rev II it tends to oversteer, I personally prefer the short handles for this particular kite.

I set the bottom lines in close and adjust the tops for whats comfortable for you.

Good luck,

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You can use either or I have found with the longer handles on a Rev II it tends to oversteer, I personally prefer the short handles for this particular kite.

I set the bottom lines in close and adjust the tops for whats comfortable for you.

Good luck,

Many thanks Jim, so far I used the 13" handles and I did notice a fair amount of oversteering as you mentioned. What lines lengths are you flying the rev2 with?

Cheers

Mario

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the 8 inch works best for that kite i never tried one with 13 but the kite is small and geared for heavier winds so 8 inch handles should do it

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I fly 13inch.. Flick flacs are easy with them.. Also 85-120s need some good wind for the 120s but it turns it into a slow flyer.

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the 8 inch works best for that kite i never tried one with 13 but the kite is small and geared for heavier winds so 8 inch handles should do it

These smaller handles are great for really strong winds when you are using a 1.5 SLE. They put less pressure on the wrist and prevent oversteer and that annoying habit of the kite flipping out if you put on too much reverse. This works especially well for those people with slightly less wrist strength.

Give it a try next time.

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The winds were cranking this afternon, so I switched from my variable Vent 1.5 to my Rev II. I kept it on the 120' lines with the 13" handles. In that wind, with long handles it was very easy to over control it. They really magnify your inputs and the Rev II doesn't need much to overdo it. Taking a photo while flying was nearly impossible, even when I added the 100' tails to slow it down.

Long handles have a lot of torque on your wrists in stronger winds too. I've never had sore wrists after flying a Rev II before. :blue-confused:

post-1987-1202877344_thumb.jpgpost-1987-1202877360_thumb.jpg

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I've had a lot of success flying this kite on my original Rev 1 handles -11" long!!! When the wind got up to where the 1 was too much, I'd swap to the 2!!! Same lines and handles!!!:) That's what's available with the new "B-2s"!!!:)

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Well, I fly mine with 15" handles because I don't have any shorter handles anymore.

Once you get use to where it over steers, it is not problem.

Do I recommend it, not really.

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What handles do you use for flying a rev2? The original 9" or the new 13" handles?

Cheers

Mario

Hey there Mario!

The new B 2 packages comes with 11" handles :)

hugs,

T

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Most of the time I`ll fly a rev 2 with 11" handles....the original rev 1 handles...but when the wind really picks up I`ll use the smaller original rev 2 handles. I find I have a lot more control and can fly the 2 in much lower wind with the 11"ers. Tried the 13`s but as mentioned way too much oversteer....although it was sort of fun.

I`ll do the same with the 1`s and 1.5`s....I`ll fly with the 13" handles and when the wind picks up I`ll go to the 11" handles.

bt

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Reviving old post..... I know I know.

Are 11" handles the same as 13"s but with longer bottom legs? Is the curve of the bend the same? And is the straight part above the bend the same?

Looking to cut down some 13"s.

Thanks.

Rob.

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Im going on memory here (I did lay my B2 handles over my normal handles at some point) and I think they are the same with just a shorter lower leg.

That said - I am fairly senile when it comes to remembering things. Also, I'm lazy and just fly my B2's on my normal handles ... after flying them for a while you will realise they are NOT a 1.5 and never will be and they are going to fly different by design. I originally flew the shorter B2 handles and they do not make the kite fly like a 1.5 and personally I don't I have any more trouble controlling the little guy on the stock 1.5 handles so I just go with them - 1 less thing to worry about or have to switch around.

Assuming there is sufficient wind, you can slow it down by going further out on your top leaders by about an inch and essentially dragging your brakes the whole time. I did that fairly successfully about 2-3 days ago in some strong wind - it slowed it down enough to make the flying more enjoyable at speed. I could have kept the kite slower on my normal setting, but by dragging the brakes the whole time I could fly as I normally do and keep the kite in check without having to change my style.

Just some ideas to toy with, your mileage may vary B)

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Reviving old post..... I know I know.

Are 11" handles the same as 13"s but with longer bottom legs? Is the curve of the bend the same? And is the straight part above the bend the same?

Looking to cut down some 13"s.

Thanks.

Rob.

Here's a picture of the 11"

http://www.thekiteshoppe.com/products/Revolution-B2-Quad-Handles.html

and here's a picture of the 13"

post-123-13414735748738_thumb.jpg

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Thanks for the info.

Cut off the bottom 50mm giving me 11" handles. Going to try a different way of making them "No Snags". I'll report back with success or what NOT to do.

For those playing at home it involves some foam earplugs and 2 part epoxy...

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Thanks for the info.

Cut off the bottom 50mm giving me 11" handles. Going to try a different way of making them "No Snags". I'll report back with success or what NOT to do.

For those playing at home it involves some foam earplugs and 2 part epoxy...

If you haven't already.... Check-out Watty's posts regarding switching to no-snag handles!

Easily done and works great!

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If you haven't already.... Check-out Watty's posts regarding switching to no-snag handles!

Easily done and works great!

Yes, excellent easy mod by Watty.

However.....beware....we have discovered that International metric parts are not the same as US parts. The drywall plugs are different.

Right, Steven? :blink:

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Well that was my experience with what I had available here - one size had a fit light enough I could pull it out by hand, and the next size up the plug was too big even without the screw. If there is a size between the two it would probably be okay ... I'm not sure if that exists or if nobody here stocks such a thing, but I tried many different types and eventually gave it up as a lost cause.

Now days I just fly Walts Pro handles (why fly less than the best), but the handles I converted with your help are still strong in the hands of new owners.

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Was looking at the "Stone in Shoe", et al method, that's my back up if this way goes south. Easy to drill out araldite.

First part, so far worked reasonably well. Plug the end of the handle with the ear plug to form a stop for the epoxy. Drill hole front to back, as opposed to sides for standards. Fill to top with epoxy, this fills internal voids and forms tunnel for leaders. Once dry, shape tip to dome. Drilling to follow.

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Only thing I see with that, is the drilling could leave a sharp edge that will cut into your leaders! Stone in Shoe's method works plenty well and holds up over the long term!!

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Only thing I see with that, is the drilling could leave a sharp edge that will cut into your leaders! Stone in Shoe's method works plenty well and holds up over the long term!!

I'm going to try the "Stone in Shoe" method on another set of handles. There isn't any sharp edges as the ends are filled with 2 part epoxy which fills all the voids. I pre drilled to final size and deburred before filling. The counter sinking after the epoxy had set turned out a treat. There isn't any edges to cut into leaders.

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I'm going to try the "Stone in Shoe" method on another set of handles. There isn't any sharp edges as the ends are filled with 2 part epoxy which fills all the voids. I pre drilled to final size and deburred before filling. The counter sinking after the epoxy had set turned out a treat. There isn't any edges to cut into leaders.

A Cautionary Note: I don't know where you leaned of the method, possibly from Watty’s Youtube video, (thanks Watty, great job). When I first did the mod I was careful that anything I did was reversible as it was a bit of an experiment and I wasn’t sure how happy I would be with the end result. As it turns out it was a good job I did, and I now recommend that people only modify the break line connections as I ended up de-modding the top fixings because it had increased the “above the bend” handle length and it messed with my grip. I have to say others haven’t found it an issue, but you do need to be aware.

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A Cautionary Note: I don't know where you leaned of the method, possibly from Watty's Youtube video, (thanks Watty, great job). When I first did the mod I was careful that anything I did was reversible as it was a bit of an experiment and I wasn't sure how happy I would be with the end result. As it turns out it was a good job I did, and I now recommend that people only modify the break line connections as I ended up de-modding the top fixings because it had increased the "above the bend" handle length and it messed with my grip. I have to say others haven't found it an issue, but you do need to be aware.

Bob - I've used "your" method - modding both top and bottom - for 5 different sets and haven't had a bit of trouble adapting to them!! Holds up nicely!! Thanks for the tip!! kid_devlish.gif

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