Jonesey Posted September 2, 2008 Report Share Posted September 2, 2008 I've heard tale of this. I know other instructional videos have ended up on foreign versions of Youtube, I should go searching... The Powerblast DVD has a really good section on light wind techniques and my SUL came with a very old (but still relevant) video ....all starring Joe or "Look Dad thats the man off the TV teaching Mummy how to fly her kite" as he is known in my house now! ... PM inbound Aerochic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sailor99 Posted September 2, 2008 Report Share Posted September 2, 2008 PM inbound Aerochic! When a plan comes together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD Posted September 2, 2008 Report Share Posted September 2, 2008 In light winds I usually go out with a B-series with Race rods in my hand and some 50# line in the other. Usually 120' because you get that nice high window and possibly wind higher up. but I've been out in about 1 mph without worries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aerochic Posted September 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 In light winds I usually go out with a B-series with Race rods in my hand and some 50# line in the other. Usually 120' because you get that nice high window and possibly wind higher up. but I've been out in about 1 mph without worries. Hmmmm...Ok, I'm halfway there equipment wise. I really need some more lines... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dean750 Posted September 3, 2008 Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 Basically, yes you need shorter lines. 30 to 50 feet. In the lighter wind the technique is pretty easy as long as your thinking while your learning. After a while you won't have to think. But it's a good idea for the time being to talk to your self. Good thing to remember is that you don't need as much brake in lighter winds. Vertical up, walk backwards. You'll get the hang of how fast you have to walk pretty quick. Vertical down move forward with brakes on for the float. Again, you'll learn how fast or slow pretty quick. Horizontal and angles all you have to remember is to keep the top hand in close to your body the bottom hand extended. Rotate your hands to keep your thumbs pointing in the same direction as the LE. (Horizonally.) Sometimes you have to walk backwards horizontally, but you'll get the hang of that as you work. Just keep the top wing hand in and maybe a little thumb on the top. When flying in reverse Vertically, slightly bounce or vibrate the brake lines to help keep the kite stable. You'll get that as you try it. Little movements. Horizontal Reverse you'll find that you'll lock the top hand in close to the body and work the brake on the lower extended hand to keep the kite vertical and to give you backward movment. You'll get it. Like all other aspects of Rev's it's practice. Shorter lines would help though. Dean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD Posted September 3, 2008 Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 Hmmmm...Ok, I'm halfway there equipment wise. I really need some more lines... Line length shouldn't make too much of a difference. but there is a huge difference from a set of 90# and 50# Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD Posted September 3, 2008 Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 Good thing to remember is that you don't need as much brake in lighter winds. just a personal taste, I use nearly the same about of break in most all winds. assuming we're talking about leaders. I'm almost always at 9" on top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dean750 Posted September 3, 2008 Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 just a personal taste, I use nearly the same about of break in most all winds. assuming we're talking about leaders. I'm almost always at 9" on top. We're typoing about someone just learning. Lift helps with frustration when learning JD. LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD Posted September 3, 2008 Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 point well taken. if i take the breaks off i have more trouble flying in the light stuff. It's just not what I'm used too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dean750 Posted September 3, 2008 Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 I'm flying with about 9" on the top leader and as close to the handle as I can get too. (about 1/2") I have the technique from flying duallies indoors so that helped me. But even still I go for at least a little lift. You don't have to work quite as hard. Beginning in light wind is predominitly forward flight, hence the lift. Aerochic, you'll get it quick. Like I said, talk to yourself. It'll help. Unless you got someone next to you that can make the calls for you. Keep the top hand in, the bottom hand out (top wing in, bottom wing out) to allow the kite to float. Up vertically is for short amounts of time. I'm sure you'll find yourself inverted alot of the time at first. If you feel like your loosing control, turn the kite inverted (LE down) and hit full brakes and take a step or what ever it takes to get your bearings back. Dean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD Posted September 3, 2008 Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 In addition to what Dean has already stated.. when you're heading up. Pull with long smooth motions as opposed to fast quick pulls which typically will make the kite move up a few feet then stall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revkitedancer Posted September 3, 2008 Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 Line length shouldn't make too much of a difference. but there is a huge difference from a set of 90# and 50# Difference? Which do you fly on JD? I think length makes a huge difference in how the kite flies. The longer the lines, the slower the kite=the more reaction time you have. In the beginning line weight seems to matter, but after you learn, it doesn't really matter. (in my mind) except that the weight should be strong enough Not to break. If your gentle with the kite a 50 lb line might do. If you are jerking and kicking the kite (I've got a strange style) the strength does matter. Most quad fliers I know use heavier then 50 lbs. So Dean~ a hover?.. hold your arms in place at body and extention points (just like your holding the kite Your arms are laid out) Holding the handles horizontal leading just a little with your forward motion if you want to float forward, or handles with a little forward up.. pointing the bottom of the handles slightly up if you want to go up..and stepping back to give lift while you are stable and balancing the kite in place as needed. hmmm Dean.. doesn't seem like much to do for one move. You make it sound so easy. I call it "a summer of fun".. learning to float and invert your kite in any direction. Is this Dean that I will see in Kentucky in a few weeks? BB Penny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD Posted September 3, 2008 Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 What I mean to say is that in light winds (under 4mph) 50# is the way to go. Any more wind then by all means use a 90# set of line. By the length not being an issue I was referring to a delay between hand and kite movement. Yes longer line will help you because the kite will appear to be moving slower because it can travel so much farther through the sky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dean750 Posted September 3, 2008 Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 No Penny, unfortunatly I'm stuck in Oregon. You gave me some advice on KiteLife a while ago. Broke my MEFM and met RescueRev and have been on the Rev kick since. I have a Rev 1 with the stock 4 wrap 1/4" rods. The stock 150# 100' lines and a 50-60' set of 90# that I fly on. I've seen ALOT of light to no wind, and well if ya wanna fly you better learn how. Fortunatly I have the indoor dual line experience that is transferable in keeping the kite in the air. So far about the only difference between dual line and quad is the inputs to make the kite turn. Although when you move to fast forward while floating to gain ground with a duallie you get out of it with a flat spin, with the Rev you axle. With either kite that specific trick nuetralizes the kite again. Dean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fortflyer Posted September 3, 2008 Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 OK after reading a few of these posts it's quite obvious everyone has their own preferences and styles when it comes to light wind. Before you can get your own style I think one needs to gain the understanding on how the kite works in a aerodynamic way in low wind conditions, examples : maximizing kinetic energy and utilizing both aerodynamics and gravity. In the Power Blast 2-4 and other speed series DVD's Joe H. demonstrates maximizing the float characteristics and minimizing energy loss via LE turns down instead of up going across the window with the top of the leading edge slightly fwd to help propel the kite fwd and the long arm bow and arrow method. He not only shows but pretty much explains very well how the design of the kite utilizes even the lightest winds in a very basic manner which are the first steps into finding what comfortably works for you through practice and experimentation. If its possible for you to get a hold of 1 of these DVD's I think the tutorial in them would give you a great head start into understanding what you want to accomplish. They say a picture can show a thousand words, video can make it a reality I'm sure someone in Jersey would be more then happy to lend you a DVD I myself will try and convert a copy to PC friendly and send it to you. P.S. standard b-series with race rods outperforms my SUL's all day so you already have the equipment needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonesey Posted September 3, 2008 Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 I myself will try and convert a copy to PC friendly and send it to you. Just a guess but I think you might find 'someone' has already done that and sent it to Aerochic... so dont spend too much time on it ... plus of course that would be illegal and we wouldnt want to condone that sort of behaviour I agree, that DVD is a geat resource and Joe as usual does a great job of getting the information over ... was great watching him using the same approach teaching my wife at Portsmouth. I also want to agree about the B-standard race frame agains SUL but for some reason, and it maybe sail age or material or tuning, but my SUL/2 wrap flys a little easier in the really light stuff ..... as you say personal style? ... of course I normally reach for my 2~4 in those conditions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aerochic Posted September 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 FORT: Thanks for the offer, but yes, Jonesey has that covered already! "Before you can get your own style I think one needs to gain the understanding on how the kite works in a aerodynamic way in low wind conditions, examples : maximizing kinetic energy and utilizing both aerodynamics and gravity." Mmmmm Hmmmmm, that's what I'm striving for. JONESEY: I already see a couple points where I was going wrong. I was mistaking "floating" for "hovering" to start with! Doh!!! JD: I think I'm following you. Needless to say that the lighter your whole kit is (in this case the lines) the easier you'll fly. Excellent point about the stall too. That was happening to me. :? DEAN: I'll have to experiment with less break as well. Have to admit I wasn't doing that. PENNY: I understand in theory what you're saying. It makes sense to me. I'll be working with my 90# to start, so this will be interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sailor99 Posted September 3, 2008 Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 DEAN: I'll have to experiment with less break as well. Have to admit I wasn't doing that.Humm. It was only when I put back the brake to my normal settings that I had any sucess with light winds - With less brake on it was all pants. more brake = more pull = keeping tighter lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revkitedancer Posted September 3, 2008 Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 Aww JD and I missed your first post of 50 lb 120 ft. Big difference in the lag there. I know I went through a spool of 50 lb for short liines. It just didn't work for me. The difference in 8 ft .of line and 30 ft. is immense. Yes, we certainly all have our own style. That's what's nice about this kite. There's really no wrong way. We're flying for a Guildworks project in Kentucky in two weeks and Scott and I have a space of 15 x 25 ft. with the Revs. You might see it internationally televised. Hi Dean BB Penny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dean750 Posted September 4, 2008 Report Share Posted September 4, 2008 Humm. It was only when I put back the brake to my normal settings that I had any sucess with light winds - With less brake on it was all pants. more brake = more pull = keeping tighter lines. That only works with a person with a light touch to begin with Sailor. Howdy Penny!!! Aerochick, flying light wind is about keeping the kite moving. Less brake and you'll figure that out for your own prefrence as you fly. One knot at a time till your comfortable. The 1.5 with the 2 wrap RR's on short lines will still take a light touch. You'll gain that light touch as you fly if you don't already have it. But you'll have that crap eating smile on your face for a week I bet when you start getting into trouble and do 360's to get out of it. You do have to move in the lighter winds. I guess it just depends on HOW MUCH you WANT to move. If it's too much then you definatly want an indoor Rev. Dean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD Posted September 4, 2008 Report Share Posted September 4, 2008 The best possible way to learn would be for you to practice in winds that are no-quite-light. Or rather a wind that is just below what you're comfortable flying with. The learning curve will be far more forgiving for you and you'll really get the feel for what does what and develop your technique. Once you get comfortable flying in lighter winds you can go lighter and lighter until you're an allstar who we're jealous of Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aerochic Posted September 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2008 The best possible way to learn would be for you to practice in winds that are no-quite-light. Or rather a wind that is just below what you're comfortable flying with. The learning curve will be far more forgiving for you and you'll really get the feel for what does what and develop your technique. Once you get comfortable flying in lighter winds you can go lighter and lighter until you're an allstar who we're jealous of Ohhhh Yeah. I can see where the only way to get over this particular learning bump is to work through it. Even if I'm not satisfied with my flying yet, I've come a long way in a year. I can honestly say that these squirrely winds I get at home helped me stay in the air much longer when the winds were light at the beach. I just would like to be jamming like everyone else tho. :? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Choccy Posted September 4, 2008 Report Share Posted September 4, 2008 squirrely winds can I have some of those, they sound cute nothing like learning new stuff in new conditions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aerochic Posted September 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2008 can I have some of those, they sound cute nothing like learning new stuff in new conditions They're only cute when they're blowing in the same direction! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeepster Posted September 4, 2008 Report Share Posted September 4, 2008 Aerochick, flying light wind ... Dean, You might want to watch your fingers when you type ... and double-check for political correctness. Webster defines Chic as ... 1: smart elegance and sophistication It then defines Chick as ... 2: child 3: slang : girl Cheers, Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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