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Rev Indoor tuning


imarche

Question

I also tied the top and bottom pig tails myself, using the specs I have on my personal kite (only this one is done more neatly)... You can fly this with a extended brake setting (like Steve or myself would use), or easily adjust to fly this kite like it comes "out of the bag".

Originally from John's Rev indoor giveaway thread. I thought it'd be better to start a new topic. Could you elaborate how the tweaks are? I suppose it's the length of the pigtail on the kite and the handles?

Thanks!

Clin

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Lam Hoac for example, would tend to fly with much less brake, as he tends to float the kite indoors more, as opposed than powering it around (which I prefer).

That's why I like to fly on my 17" handles -- they're tuned for that sort of powering around, but the extreme throw (not only 17", but also much more angled than the rev indoor handles) also allows me to float the kite as flat as I want.

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Well said Simon, it's also the premise of the style we've been teaching on the B-Series over the past year.

Anyone have a pic handy, of the indoor handles?

Here's my set of Indoor handles from my first Indoor Rev.

They may have changed since then.

post-1987-1228279064_thumb.jpg

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As long as we're on the topic of tuning an Indoor Rev, sail tension is also a factor.

On my kites, I do not like the sail loose at all... Not drawn drum tight mind you, just pulling out the slack.

If it's too tight, not only is your frame more stressed (torqued), but the sail will tend to stretch faster.

If it's too loose, for my tastes, it creates variables in the surface of the sail (ripples), which I don't care for.

Anyone have their own preferences with regard to sail tension?

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On some of my handles, I'm liking 90# spectra, doubled up (like the B-Series leaders - but with spectra instead).

Thick enough (x2) to work with, knots are large enough to larks head onto (but not too big), and it's still light/flexible.

Not ideal for average outdoor flying, but nice for light wind or indoor.

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As long as we're on the topic of tuning an Indoor Rev, sail tension is also a factor.

On my kites, I do not like the sail loose at all... Not drawn drum tight mind you, just pulling out the slack.

If it's too tight, not only is your frame more stressed (torqued), but the sail will tend to stretch faster.

If it's too loose, for my tastes, it creates variables in the surface of the sail (ripples), which I don't care for.

Anyone have their own preferences with regard to sail tension?

I was wondering about that .. I have a bit too much give in my indoor I THINK.. not enough experience yet to know. But I do know that I am really having to power my reverse in order to keep it. Would that have anything to do with that? I do have my lines longer on the top. Tried the extensions, but I was a little too shaky still to deal with those at Camas.

A lot to learn yet...

Mousie

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still looking for some good close up photos of the endcap configuration...am in the process of converting to endcaps...bottom vertical endcaps were easy...top vert endcaps, do you use bungie cord, or some string...for the horizontal caps, how do you configure bungies with only one hole...photos & information please...g

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Ah, missed this somehow... Sorry!

I put my end caps on the same way as I would for a regular 1.5 (all four tips)... For the end caps at the top of the verticals (on the LE), I use 100# dacron bridle material (non-cored), same method as you would with bunji, but tied real close to the LE itself.

Not so tight they can't be moved easily during assembly, etc, but tight enough to keep them from sticking far up off the LE.

There's no secret method, you actually re-use most of the parts, changing out only the caps. ;)

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Oho, I think it just clicked... Yours is an older model Indoor (maybe), which was only using one hole on the wing tips for the bunji... All of mine have two holes, one for each end of the bunji knots.

In your case, if I understand right, I'd do it all the same as original... Both ends through one hole, then a single knot.

Did I get it?

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Excellent, sorry for the density. :)

To complicate things though...

Some people have a way of tying the knot inside the LE material, and hiding it from snags entirely.

Never done it myself, but someone else here might have some info, if you're interested.

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. . . you can also improvise end caps from biro lids, which is what i did on my indoor rev when i was desperate for an outdoor flight and too impatient to wait for the post to get some new ones!!!! (idea snitched from Richard - G-Force)

Simply melt the end of the biro lid in order to seal one end and stick a hole in it for the bungee. . . . .

marty B)

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Some people have a way of tying the knot inside the LE material, and hiding it from snags entirely.

Never done it myself, but someone else here might have some info, if you're interested.

when I converted my indoor from inserts to endcaps I completely omitted knots in bungees. What I did which was not terribly easy, but I think worth it, was to make circle out of each bungee so that the ends overlapped about a 1/4 of an inch. The circle needs to be small enough to provide appropriate sail tension. To secure the ends I used a "glover's" needle (very sharp needle used for hand sewing leather) and strong thread. I stitched through both ends and wrapped the overlapp tightly, then went through once more before tying off. The overlapped portion of this bungee loop disappears inside the endcap leaving no snag point.

Oh, important of course that the end cap and the sail be threaded on to the bungee before you sew the loop closed

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when I converted my indoor from inserts to endcaps I completely omitted knots in bungees. What I did which was not terribly easy, but I think worth it, was to make circle out of each bungee so that the ends overlapped about a 1/4 of an inch. The circle needs to be small enough to provide appropriate sail tension. To secure the ends I used a "glover's" needle (very sharp needle used for hand sewing leather) and strong thread. I stitched through both ends and wrapped the overlapp tightly, then went through once more before tying off. The overlapped portion of this bungee loop disappears inside the endcap leaving no snag point.

Oh, important of course that the end cap and the sail be threaded on to the bungee before you sew the loop closed

That does sound nice, but what do you do when you need to tighten the sail?

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