Jump to content

makatakam

Forum Member
  • Posts

    633
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    92

Everything posted by makatakam

  1. Call Lolly at Revolution Kites and ask.
  2. You won't get much more out of the stock set-up. It designed to prevent total failure on the part of a first-timer without experienced advice and physical help during set-up and first flights. Once you're comfortable with assembly, line layout, launch and basic flight like turns, circles, figures of eight, etc., it's time for longer top leaders (search leaders on this forum) so you can add brake. This will increase control of reverse flight and inverted hover. You'll still need many more hours of time on the lines before you master these two VERY basic moves, but once you're comfy with them, everything else will be much easier to learn. Smile, have fun, and don't forget to breathe.
  3. Try to fly in 5-10 mph wind until you have very good control. If you're fighting to stay airborne you're not developing the muscle memory to gain control of the kite's movement. Flying in less than ideal wind as a beginner makes it take longer to learn the basics, and you may pick up bad habits you'll have to unlearn later. Watch the video tutorials and know they are GOSPEL. Especially tuning basics -- use as much brake as you can and still lift off.
  4. In the days before the springs and reflex everyone flew without them. You can fly with or without. They change the flight characteristics in some ways. Try it. The difference is not HUGE, but is more noticeable as you gain experience. The main difference is how the kite "floats" as you gain ground inverted, and being able to hover closer to the edge of the wind window. It does slow down some tricks and its desirability depends on your flying style. It does help beginners a bit with control as it makes the kite a bit less "squirrely" by slowing down its response to changes in wind speed. This can also be accomplished by additional brake in the tuning. The reflex does it without diminishing forward drive from inputs. It slows down the onset of "squirrely" but not its intensity if the gust persists. If this is a bit hard to wrap your brain around just give it time. It will become plain as you spend more time flying.
  5. If they are the same inside diameter they should be fine. I would use two or three wraps of 3/4" painters' tape to reinforce the end so you don't splinter the tube. Do the newer tubes have reinforced tips? I think the new tubes are a larger diameter and the caps may not fit inside. The old tubes are 1/4" ID. New tubes are 5/16", I think.
  6. 5-10 mph is ideal for a beginner. As mentioned you can't learn good control if you are struggling to just stay airborne. Also, low wind flying requires proper tuning which again requires more hands-on experience and additional brake (lines further out on the top knots) which is difficult to wrap your head around until you understand that the closer to perpendicular the sail gets to the direction of the wind, the more force it applies to the sail -- which is what keeps the kite in the air. Flying with maximum brake is difficult for beginners because the kite must be told what to do as opposed to moving forward on its own. You must have replaced the original leaders on the handles with extended ones in order to use maximum possible brake settings, so some equipment modification is necessary. The standard factory leaders are made shorter so the beginner (who seldom reads directions because "who doesn't know how to fly a kite", right?) can get the kite off the ground without struggling. Low wind flying is an "acquired" taste -- something you get used to by putting in the time. There is no magic equipment to buy which will make it happen immediately. The right equipment helps buy does not take the place of time on the lines. Get or make extended leaders for the handles and fly in wind that you don't struggle in. The low-wind thing will happen in time. Fly with experienced flyers as often as possible. They'll shave dozens of hours from the learning curve. Dunstable Downs sees a lot of quad-line kites I hear. Good luck -- have fun, smile, and don't forget to breathe.
  7. Watch this video. https://youtu.be/cUWqOD1YBf8
  8. Your video link doesn't work for me.
  9. Cool, because the rest of us have no idea which John you meant. Many other people make similar stakes, including the Chinese. I know this one guy, John, who uses a rusty screwdriver, but I'm guessing you already knew where to find those.
  10. Ask John. I'm sure he knows.
  11. If I absolutely had to, I could get by on a standard sail, a full vent and a roll of masking tape, as I did for a couple of years when starting out.
  12. makatakam

    Lines

    He likes driving a Ferrari at bicycle speed. The really short 75 foot lines make the kite too fast for him to handle, I guess. Like the rest of us his likes will probably change with time.
  13. makatakam

    Lines

    No, I meant let the top lines out on the leaders or bring the bottom lines in. In other words, make the tops longer or the bottom shorter, or a combination of both, so that the wing's angle of attack is reduced. The wind will never put 520kg of pull on the kite. If you tilt the top of the kite away from you by adjusting the leaders it will stop the kite from shooting away. With 130kg lines you are using a medium cannon to kill a fly. Even with 45kg lines it's still overkill.
  14. makatakam

    Lines

    41kg/90lb lines are more than enough for the B2. 45kg/100lb are also used by some pilots. The B2 is fast but can be controlled easily by using more brake. More brake slows it down about 10% but more importantly it reduces the kite's ability to "run away" from you everytime a gust of wind hits it. The additional brake is what makes the "JB control level" possible. Heavier lines will slow it down, but 150kg lines on a B2 is like using a cannon to kill a fly.
  15. A sudden stop in the movement is MORE likely to break the spar. This set-up will cause more breakage instead of preventing it.
  16. The XX is a good choice for light winds. The diamond frame is the lightest in weight, but I don't know if it is still available. Even with the correct equipment it will take some time to learn to fly in light winds. Light wind is a major challenge, even for experienced flyers. You must learn the basics first and then learn special technique and kite settings before you can easily keep the kite in the air. It is not as easy as it looks in the videos. It is like learning to play chess. First you must learn all the moves each piece can make, then you must learn when to make those moves, then you must learn how to put them all together to play a game. Good luck and have fun. Remember to breathe, and smile.
  17. Drop by the KiteLife forum. Post there. You probably won't get a response here. This forum is not as active as it used to be. These are available new from Revolution Kites. It may be difficult to find a used one. Good luck.
  18. I haven't flown the RX Spider but as an addition to what you already have it will only cover wind speeds that are very uncomfortable to fly in. But if you must fly in extremely high wind then it's a must-have. If you have the option to not fly in those conditions you'll only miss a few days per year. Flying at the low-end of the wind speed range is a different story. This comes only with experience. An ultralight or super ultralight kite designed for low-wind or no-wind conditions is good to have as there are more low-wind than high-wind days per year, but at first even a kite designed for low wind speed will be difficult to fly easily at first. It is a completely different game. You must learn to load the sail and fly with a lot of brake to keep the sail as square to the wind as possible. The more often you try, the better you get, but it takes time on the lines to get the hang of it. It's kind of like starting over again. Just keep at it. It will come. You may even look forward to low wind eventually. It has its own panache.
  19. Hi, and welcome to the forum. There are many quad-line fliers in the UK, and someone may chime in, but the Rev Forum is not as active as it used to be. Join us at KiteLife which is a forum that is devoted to all kites, quad and other, and where you are more likely to meet up with others. There is also a quad-line kite group on Facebook that may interest you.
  20. makatakam

    mr

    They are spares in case you break one.
  21. If all the frame members are included as well as lines and handles and the sail is not absolutely ragged, jump on it fast. You would pay nearly that much for just a new set of handles. Although the Rev I is the large and slow configuration, it's good to learn on just for that reason. It would be a steal at literally twice that price even if it has a ton of wear on it. Al long as it isn't falling apart, go for it. I would buy it for myself, but I already have 14 Revs in my bag.
  22. Hi, and welcome to the forum. There's a few quad flyers in the Midwest and one in the Detroit area. Join the KiteLife forum also. Check the member maps here and over there for flyers nearest to you.
  23. It's fun and really different. I've flown on 250' lines but only once. There is not much advantage as far as getting up into the wind goes and control becomes weird. The kite's speed and response time slow down very much and the kite must lift the weight of the additional line. Not much advantage if the wind is slow or inconsistent to begin with because it is usually proportionally slow and/or inconsistent higher up. The longest lines I would think to be enjoyable (not a ton of work) would be 180 feet, with 150 being a more realistic choice. If you want an idea of how long lines change performance, just connect (larkshead) two 120-foot sets, or a 120 and an 80. 150 to 180 will give you a huge wind window without becoming laborious.
  24. I'm not sure it exists any more. Hang in there, someone from admin will probably chime in and let us know.
×
×
  • Create New...