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makatakam

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makatakam last won the day on January 14

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About makatakam

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    Regular Poster
  • Birthday 04/10/1951

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Schaumburg, IL, USA (Chicago nw suburb)
  • Interests
    kites, fishing, fossils, target shooting
  • Favorite Kites
    revs, my home-mades, and anything else with more than 0 lines

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    makmiecik@yahoo.com

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  1. If all the frame members are included as well as lines and handles and the sail is not absolutely ragged, jump on it fast. You would pay nearly that much for just a new set of handles. Although the Rev I is the large and slow configuration, it's good to learn on just for that reason. It would be a steal at literally twice that price even if it has a ton of wear on it. Al long as it isn't falling apart, go for it. I would buy it for myself, but I already have 14 Revs in my bag.
  2. Hi, and welcome to the forum. There's a few quad flyers in the Midwest and one in the Detroit area. Join the KiteLife forum also. Check the member maps here and over there for flyers nearest to you.
  3. It's fun and really different. I've flown on 250' lines but only once. There is not much advantage as far as getting up into the wind goes and control becomes weird. The kite's speed and response time slow down very much and the kite must lift the weight of the additional line. Not much advantage if the wind is slow or inconsistent to begin with because it is usually proportionally slow and/or inconsistent higher up. The longest lines I would think to be enjoyable (not a ton of work) would be 180 feet, with 150 being a more realistic choice. If you want an idea of how long lines change performance, just connect (larkshead) two 120-foot sets, or a 120 and an 80. 150 to 180 will give you a huge wind window without becoming laborious.
  4. makatakam

    Members Map

    I'm not sure it exists any more. Hang in there, someone from admin will probably chime in and let us know.
  5. The armor all and the talcum powder will both accumulate dust and dirt, and the talcum will probably cause the lines to bind sooner. It's meant to ease the friction caused on skin by cloth. If you use any kind of lubricant on your lines I would recommend a silicon or teflon spray with a medium that will completely evaporate quickly. The best way to keep your lines slippery is to wash them occasionally. I usually put the winder with the line well secured to it in a cotton drawstring bag in with the laundry when I do underwear, and don't use any softener. When the wash is done I put the line in for an additional rinse by itself. Once the lines get fuzzy from wear there isn't much you can do to keep them from binding. That's when you cut them down to shorter lines. The fuzziness shows up in the area where the lines cross most often and about 5 feet to either side.
  6. makatakam

    Hi

    Hi, Duncan, and welcome to the forum. Lots of folks east of you towards London. There isn't much activity on this forum. You can join us on the KiteLife forum if you haven't yet. You will most likely get responses there.
  7. The new kites can't do some of the old stuff and the old kites can't do some of the new stuff. There are always design limitations -- compromises which can't be avoided. Which you prefer, new or old design, will eventually become clear depending on your flying style and what you want the kite to do. It's a journey of discovery that will last a lifetime. Come on in. The water's fine.
  8. The more the total sail area increases and the total weight decreases the more chance that the kite will fly in lower speed wind. There are other factors involved, but these two are the major factors to consider at the outset. Obviously, if you attach a bowling ball to a Rev II it won't get off the ground. If you attach a feather to a Rev I it will appear to be zero hindrance to flight. So, knowing this you can do one or the other or both of two things to fly in lighter wind. Increase the sail area. Decrease the weight. Or both. If you increase the sail area, however, you are also increasing the weight by the amount of the materials added, additional frame lengths, sailcloth, more robust connectors to handle the additional stress of greater sail area, increased bridle leg lengths, etc. Another factor is the weight of the flying lines the kite has to pull with itself. So the simplest way to make a kite fly in lighter wind is to leave the sail area as it is and decrease the amount, weight and/or size of some or all of components (including the sail material, but that gets into somewhat complicated aerodynamic theory regarding how and where it can be done) so as to reduce the overall weight significantly, but not to the point where structural integrity is severely compromised. So, how is this done. Here's some ideas to play with. What is the minimum length of connector necessary so it doesn't fall off when I tug sharply on the lines (assuming the bungees are properly tensioned)? How much bungee do I need to keep the sail tensioned? How much less weight does the kite have to drag around if I use shorter lines? Do I need a 200-pound bridle to fly in 1-mph wind? Do I need 90-pound lines for that wind? Can I use thinner, smaller diameter frame members? I'm sure you can think of more. If you want to play with this and don't want to hack up a kite you already have, buy a cheap "beater" and go to town on it. Modifying a kite to improve performance is how you become one with the understanding of what makes it work. Just don't forget to have fun as you do it. Don't let the drive replace the joy.
  9. The differential in distance is greater from side to side than it is from top to bottom. In other words, the distance between the control lines on the left and right is greater than the distance between the forward and reverse control lines. This allows a more efficient angle of attack. You can hold an upright hover in the same wind speed if you bring in the top lines toward the handles, but you would lose control ability in other aspects of flight. As always, it is a compromise of adjustments that allow optimum performance. You can't have all the extremes at once, and once you go beyond any extreme flight becomes impossible and the kite falls from the sky. The surface area of the airfoil doesn't change, but its shape and orientation to the wind flow do.
  10. Except for wind range the differences between the two are quite subtle. Without many, many hours of experience you most probably would be hard pressed to tell the difference. A Rev flies like a Rev. Changes in bridling, panel layout, frame selection, sail material, leading edge mesh and a multitude of other things change the characteristics slightly, but not enough to force one to relearn the game. Once you can fly a Rev you can pretty much fly any Rev, assuming sufficient wind for the model you want to fly. Not really something to agonize over when you're just starting out. My recommendation for all beginners is to get a standard (not vented) sail and stay well within the recommended wind range until you have mastered basic control. Of course, nobody does this, and therefore it takes longer to learn but you do have more fun and sometimes frustration.
  11. I have reconsidered. I must now say that my favorite Revs are the ones I still have in my bag.
  12. Hi, Nigel. We met on the KiteLife forum. Many of the new Revs feature the new Reflex technology, which gives a 3-dimensional shape to the sail, and the degree of this varies with the amount of air pressure on the sail. It helps in lower wind and changes the flight characteristics in a few other ways. It's neither better or worse in any respect, just different. You may like it. You may not. It does what it does. Find someone who has one and try it. As you know, I have stated that there is no "perfect kite" that will instantly make you a pro. However, the more different kinds you try, the better you will get and the better you will understand what makes them fly the way they do. I love broccoli. Most people don't. Most people like chocolate. Many don't. What's the easiest way to find out? Try it. If you're interested, buy one. Give it some time to grow on you. If it ends up sitting in your bag too long, you can sell or trade, or even give it to someone who's getting into quads but can't afford one. I've done it. Many times with many different kites for ten years now. The reflex springs can be disabled so the kite can be flown as the older Revs did. This makes the kite more versatile. The sail panel layout is obviously different, and does affect flight characteristics that an advanced flier will notice. Again, whether this suits your style and level of experience depends on how much you fly. I say: "If you have the talent and sufficient wind, you can fly a brick."
  13. Cool. Glad to hear you got some air time in. What length of handles are you using? I prefer 11-inch for the II-sized kites, but 13's should be ok, just keep the input gestures mild. Replace the bungee. If it's from the 90's it definitely needs to be replaced since rubber disintegrates quickly. It's 1/8 inch diameter and not expensive. It'll take you an hour or two but is well worth it. You'll be amazed at how much control you'll gain when you have some shock absorption to compensate for wind gusts. When you are laying out the lines don't worry about all the twists you see in the lines. Most of them are not really there. Just hook up the kite and handles and put tension on the lines. Voila, 99.9% of them disappear. The one or two that remain can be easily removed at the handle end by shuffling the handles around and through each other.
  14. The difference is 110 pounds , and that's because of the greater number of panels and some design features which both increase the amount of labor involved. The EXP is built for price point, intended for beginners and/or those who are not sure if they will really get into it. They will both fly and feel the same to a flyer who is new to quad-line kites, but the 1.5 Classic has performance and durability advantages over the EXP, so if you are sure you're going to continue flying and can afford the difference without hurting your pocketbook, go for it. The other option is to get one of the older discontinued 1.5 B-Series, on eBay or from a kite shop that still has old stock, either new or used. There are other quads available which are nearly identical in general shape and performance, but be aware that you will get what you pay for. Anything new for less than 120 pounds will cause you grief. If you have no brick and mortar kite shop in your vicinity, you can purchase on-line. There's quite a few in NW Europe that handle quads of all sorts. Oh, and welcome to the forum. Have fun, smile and don't forget to breathe.
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