Jump to content

makatakam

Forum Member
  • Content Count

    616
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    88

makatakam last won the day on November 10

makatakam had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

159 Excellent

About makatakam

  • Rank
    Regular Poster
  • Birthday 04/10/1951

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Schaumburg, IL, USA (Chicago nw suburb)
  • Interests
    kites, fishing, fossils, target shooting
  • Favorite Kites
    revs, my home-mades, and anything else with more than 0 lines

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    makmiecik@yahoo.com

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. The XX is a good choice for light winds. The diamond frame is the lightest in weight, but I don't know if it is still available. Even with the correct equipment it will take some time to learn to fly in light winds. Light wind is a major challenge, even for experienced flyers. You must learn the basics first and then learn special technique and kite settings before you can easily keep the kite in the air. It is not as easy as it looks in the videos. It is like learning to play chess. First you must learn all the moves each piece can make, then you must learn when to make those moves, then you must learn how to put them all together to play a game. Good luck and have fun. Remember to breathe, and smile.
  2. Drop by the KiteLife forum. Post there. You probably won't get a response here. This forum is not as active as it used to be. These are available new from Revolution Kites. It may be difficult to find a used one. Good luck.
  3. I haven't flown the RX Spider but as an addition to what you already have it will only cover wind speeds that are very uncomfortable to fly in. But if you must fly in extremely high wind then it's a must-have. If you have the option to not fly in those conditions you'll only miss a few days per year. Flying at the low-end of the wind speed range is a different story. This comes only with experience. An ultralight or super ultralight kite designed for low-wind or no-wind conditions is good to have as there are more low-wind than high-wind days per year, but at first even a kite designed for low wind speed will be difficult to fly easily at first. It is a completely different game. You must learn to load the sail and fly with a lot of brake to keep the sail as square to the wind as possible. The more often you try, the better you get, but it takes time on the lines to get the hang of it. It's kind of like starting over again. Just keep at it. It will come. You may even look forward to low wind eventually. It has its own panache.
  4. Hi, and welcome to the forum. There are many quad-line fliers in the UK, and someone may chime in, but the Rev Forum is not as active as it used to be. Join us at KiteLife which is a forum that is devoted to all kites, quad and other, and where you are more likely to meet up with others. There is also a quad-line kite group on Facebook that may interest you.
  5. makatakam

    mr

    They are spares in case you break one.
  6. If all the frame members are included as well as lines and handles and the sail is not absolutely ragged, jump on it fast. You would pay nearly that much for just a new set of handles. Although the Rev I is the large and slow configuration, it's good to learn on just for that reason. It would be a steal at literally twice that price even if it has a ton of wear on it. Al long as it isn't falling apart, go for it. I would buy it for myself, but I already have 14 Revs in my bag.
  7. Hi, and welcome to the forum. There's a few quad flyers in the Midwest and one in the Detroit area. Join the KiteLife forum also. Check the member maps here and over there for flyers nearest to you.
  8. It's fun and really different. I've flown on 250' lines but only once. There is not much advantage as far as getting up into the wind goes and control becomes weird. The kite's speed and response time slow down very much and the kite must lift the weight of the additional line. Not much advantage if the wind is slow or inconsistent to begin with because it is usually proportionally slow and/or inconsistent higher up. The longest lines I would think to be enjoyable (not a ton of work) would be 180 feet, with 150 being a more realistic choice. If you want an idea of how long lines change performance, just connect (larkshead) two 120-foot sets, or a 120 and an 80. 150 to 180 will give you a huge wind window without becoming laborious.
  9. makatakam

    Members Map

    I'm not sure it exists any more. Hang in there, someone from admin will probably chime in and let us know.
  10. The armor all and the talcum powder will both accumulate dust and dirt, and the talcum will probably cause the lines to bind sooner. It's meant to ease the friction caused on skin by cloth. If you use any kind of lubricant on your lines I would recommend a silicon or teflon spray with a medium that will completely evaporate quickly. The best way to keep your lines slippery is to wash them occasionally. I usually put the winder with the line well secured to it in a cotton drawstring bag in with the laundry when I do underwear, and don't use any softener. When the wash is done I put the line in for an additional rinse by itself. Once the lines get fuzzy from wear there isn't much you can do to keep them from binding. That's when you cut them down to shorter lines. The fuzziness shows up in the area where the lines cross most often and about 5 feet to either side.
  11. makatakam

    Hi

    Hi, Duncan, and welcome to the forum. Lots of folks east of you towards London. There isn't much activity on this forum. You can join us on the KiteLife forum if you haven't yet. You will most likely get responses there.
  12. The new kites can't do some of the old stuff and the old kites can't do some of the new stuff. There are always design limitations -- compromises which can't be avoided. Which you prefer, new or old design, will eventually become clear depending on your flying style and what you want the kite to do. It's a journey of discovery that will last a lifetime. Come on in. The water's fine.
  13. The more the total sail area increases and the total weight decreases the more chance that the kite will fly in lower speed wind. There are other factors involved, but these two are the major factors to consider at the outset. Obviously, if you attach a bowling ball to a Rev II it won't get off the ground. If you attach a feather to a Rev I it will appear to be zero hindrance to flight. So, knowing this you can do one or the other or both of two things to fly in lighter wind. Increase the sail area. Decrease the weight. Or both. If you increase the sail area, however, you are also increasing the weight by the amount of the materials added, additional frame lengths, sailcloth, more robust connectors to handle the additional stress of greater sail area, increased bridle leg lengths, etc. Another factor is the weight of the flying lines the kite has to pull with itself. So the simplest way to make a kite fly in lighter wind is to leave the sail area as it is and decrease the amount, weight and/or size of some or all of components (including the sail material, but that gets into somewhat complicated aerodynamic theory regarding how and where it can be done) so as to reduce the overall weight significantly, but not to the point where structural integrity is severely compromised. So, how is this done. Here's some ideas to play with. What is the minimum length of connector necessary so it doesn't fall off when I tug sharply on the lines (assuming the bungees are properly tensioned)? How much bungee do I need to keep the sail tensioned? How much less weight does the kite have to drag around if I use shorter lines? Do I need a 200-pound bridle to fly in 1-mph wind? Do I need 90-pound lines for that wind? Can I use thinner, smaller diameter frame members? I'm sure you can think of more. If you want to play with this and don't want to hack up a kite you already have, buy a cheap "beater" and go to town on it. Modifying a kite to improve performance is how you become one with the understanding of what makes it work. Just don't forget to have fun as you do it. Don't let the drive replace the joy.
  14. The differential in distance is greater from side to side than it is from top to bottom. In other words, the distance between the control lines on the left and right is greater than the distance between the forward and reverse control lines. This allows a more efficient angle of attack. You can hold an upright hover in the same wind speed if you bring in the top lines toward the handles, but you would lose control ability in other aspects of flight. As always, it is a compromise of adjustments that allow optimum performance. You can't have all the extremes at once, and once you go beyond any extreme flight becomes impossible and the kite falls from the sky. The surface area of the airfoil doesn't change, but its shape and orientation to the wind flow do.
  15. Except for wind range the differences between the two are quite subtle. Without many, many hours of experience you most probably would be hard pressed to tell the difference. A Rev flies like a Rev. Changes in bridling, panel layout, frame selection, sail material, leading edge mesh and a multitude of other things change the characteristics slightly, but not enough to force one to relearn the game. Once you can fly a Rev you can pretty much fly any Rev, assuming sufficient wind for the model you want to fly. Not really something to agonize over when you're just starting out. My recommendation for all beginners is to get a standard (not vented) sail and stay well within the recommended wind range until you have mastered basic control. Of course, nobody does this, and therefore it takes longer to learn but you do have more fun and sometimes frustration.
×
×
  • Create New...