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? on old rev


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Just acquired a T300? Is that a rev1? still got the clips on the bridle and hog rings in the end caps! hasn't been flown much sail is still crisp. I guess my question is can you buy new bridles for these? Also will regular endcap replacements

work on this. I scored big on this deal, the Rev, 5 foils(never flown one), 3 slks, and a big Peter Powell dualie for 50.00, couldn't pass it up all in great shape. Thanks in advance for the info.

Michael

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It is most likely a REV I. Take a look at this, it will tell you more: http://johnnmitchell.com/IntSportKites/rev_history/r1.html

Yes, The presently marketed REV I bridle will fit on your REV.

Yes, the present plastic end caps can be used in most cases, I have seen older rods that randomly do not fit well in the the plastic end caps, meaning too tight.

Unless you are looking to save weight, I would suggest leaving the original end caps.

Save your old bridle in case you want to return the REV to its original condition. Please note the older bridles in most case require different length lines, upper to lower.

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One quick check you can do is try one of the rods in a plastic end cap on one of your other revs. Maybe the handles you currently have have extra long leaders, if it doesn't fly in the normal position put the longer leaders on the bottom of your handles. The original lines just clipped to the hog rings on the handles. I agree with John on leaving the 3-piece end caps on the kite.

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Hope you got the old lines that came with it and they are still usable! If not, a new style bridle isn't too expensive and easy to replace! Pull the LE rods out and give them a good looking over! Any dents or signs of bending in the metal ferrules is a bad thing! Any compromise in the tube shape invites failure! Consider getting enough rods to do a LE if they show any signs of abuse! Added plus - new caps will fit for sure, then!!

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One thing to check for is on the back of the leading edge Dacron where the vertical rod passes over the horizontal(leading edge) rods.

Look for wear there. If you see wear, does it go all the way through to the rod or do you see yellow Kevlar?

If you see yellow Kevlar, don't worry about it. The Kevlar was not used on the earlier sails, but was added to keep the rods from rubbing against each other thus grooving the leading edge rods.

If you don't see any wear at all then peek under the Dacron, it might take some effort, and see if you see the yellow Kevlar. If it there, you are fine. If it is not there you might think about some measure to take to protect the the rods from each other. The alternative is just don't fly the REV I that much if the Kevlar is not there.

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It is most likely a REV I.

Actually, as far as I know, it has to be a Rev I. T300 is actually a reference to the modulus of the carbon used in the spars, and the early Rev I (under either the Neos Omega or Revolution name) was the only kite, to my knowledge, that had that particular marking silk screened on it.

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I am new to Revs, and just got a vintage Rev with the same markings here in Texasani_victory.gif. I also purchased a 1.5. My wife is still mad. I need to replace the spars, especially the verticals. It also has the same size spars for the leading edge. Any opinions on going to the larger tubes? and/or suppliers?

Gordon

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Jeff is correct.

T300 does refer to the carbon fiber used in the rods. It comes from mfr Toray Carbon Fibers America.

The T300 text did in fact appear only on the REV I with the Neos Omega Logo or the curved Revolution logo through 1996.

In 1997 the Revolution logo was changed to the present day logo and the T300 text was removed.

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Gordon,

It would be best to stay away from the larger diameter (SLE) spars unless you really want them for some reason.

The smaller diameter rods are easier to fly with and give you more precision.

There is quite a range of these spars available from Revolution and Revolution dealers such as The Kite Shoppe and others.

Which spars you choose have a lot to do with the wind strength and your personal preference.

Unless you really know what you are doing, use only the original Revolution spars. They are definitely worth what you pay for them.

My general favorite for the REV I is the green race rod.

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I am new to Revs, and just got a vintage Rev with the same markings here in Texasani_victory.gif. I also purchased a 1.5. My wife is still mad. I need to replace the spars, especially the verticals. It also has the same size spars for the leading edge. Any opinions on going to the larger tubes? and/or suppliers?

Gordon

Why the verts?? Unless seriously cracked or broken, they shouldn't need replacing! Or you can use the existing wingtip rods for them, as they are the same length! You might only need a new leading edge (3 pcs) to fix it up! And a new style bridle if you have the old!!

I am new to Revs, and just got a vintage Rev with the same markings here in Texasani_victory.gif. I also purchased a 1.5. My wife is still mad. I need to replace the spars, especially the verticals. It also has the same size spars for the leading edge. Any opinions on going to the larger tubes? and/or suppliers?

Gordon

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Gordon,

It would be best to stay away from the larger diameter (SLE) spars unless you really want them for some reason.

The smaller diameter rods are easier to fly with and give you more precision.

There is quite a range of these spars available from Revolution and Revolution dealers such as The Kite Shoppe and others.

Which spars you choose have a lot to do with the wind strength and your personal preference.

Unless you really know what you are doing, use only the original Revolution spars. They are definitely worth what you pay for them.

My general favorite for the REV I is the green race rod.

Sounds Good. Since I'm a new Rev owner, andit came with the 4 wrap smaller tubes, I'll stick with that. If I break the first set, we can revisit. I plan to replace the whole works and keep the old ones for "Used Spare Tires". I may even re-bridle. Hope I can change my stunt kite reflexes. ani_victory.gif

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Why the verts?? Unless seriously cracked or broken, they shouldn't need replacing! Or you can use the existing wingtip rods for them, as they are the same length! You might only need a new leading edge (3 pcs) to fix it up! And a new style bridle if you have the old!!

Simple enough. One of the verticals is only 34.2 inches and both look like they been chewed on the ends. If I cleaned up both to 34" They wouldn't clear the sail from the back. The outside spars also look a little worn. Can you lubricate the rods where they go into the ferrel?

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Simple enough. One of the verticals is only 34.2 inches and both look like they been chewed on the ends. If I cleaned up both to 34" They wouldn't clear the sail from the back. The outside spars also look a little worn. Can you lubricate the rods where they go into the ferrel?

The problem with lubricating the rods is that the lubricant will attract dirt and sand thus making the situation worse.

You can sand the end of the rods where they fit into the end cap in order to take off the resin coating. Watch that the sand paper remains with white dust. If it changes to black dust then you are starting to attack the carbon.

It is probably best to take the two end rods from the leading edge and compare the lengths to the down rods. Pick the two that are closet in length and use them as down rods. You can use the other two as end rods for the leading edge.

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What'sworn look like?? I still fly my Rev 1 with it's original rods with no problem! Unless they are really in bad shape, put it together and fly!!

Wayne, the very early REV I had short end caps at the top of the vertical rods. The cap did touch LE rods and rubbed through the Dacron thus directly to the LE rods.

Revolution made two corrections. There was Kevlar cloth added between the Dacron pieced on the leading edge. The other was an extended rubber cap at the top of the vertical rods.

The changes took place around 1991.

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Gordon, leave the rods (tubes) alone and fly them as they are. There is no point repairing or replacing something you'll probably beat up during the learning process, unless they are broken in pieces.

Get to the point where you don't crash and burn anymore, then repair what's left or replace.

P.S. -- Welcome to the forum and the "dark side".

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Thanks all, for the help. I guess the leading edge wear I was talking about was the coating coming off from the ferrels, so probably still good. The two verticals are different lengths where the end cracked off of one. I like the idea of buying the leading edge getting two new verticals, and have an extra center length, I think first I'll try the verticals using them as horizontals and the others as the verticals. Nothing to lose, and cheaper, now that I know they are all 36". The leading edge length looks like it has a little extra play. A complete replace is about $85-90 dollars.

I had tried to fly it as is and failed. Maybe it's the line lengths. Did this kite require a leader to make the the upper or lower lines longer? (My lines are all the same length. )

The comment about the "Dark Side" is something my friend Spence has been saying for years.

Let the games begin!!

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Thanks all, for the help. I guess the leading edge wear I was talking about was the coating coming off from the ferrels, so probably still good. The two verticals are different lengths where the end cracked off of one. I like the idea of buying the leading edge getting two new verticals, and have an extra center length, I think first I'll try the verticals using them as horizontals and the others as the verticals. Nothing to lose, and cheaper, now that I know they are all 36". The leading edge length looks like it has a little extra play. A complete replace is about $85-90 dollars.

I had tried to fly it as is and failed. Maybe it's the line lengths. Did this kite require a leader to make the the upper or lower lines longer? (My lines are all the same length. )

The comment about the "Dark Side" is something my friend Spence has been saying for years.

Let the games begin!!

You say "cracked off". What do you mean by this? Is it literally broken off or just rough looking? A photo might help.

I don't recall anymore whether you need to add the 6-7 inches to the top or the bottom lines when using equal length control lines. That is going back some 22 years for me.

When you have the REV set up, line attached and handles vertical does the REV lean forward and tries to start or is it leaning backwards and you can't start it?

If it is leaning to far forward then you need to attache 6-7 inch leaders to the top lines.

If it is leaning to far backwards then you need to attache 6-7 inch leaders to the lower lines.

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Go to the hardware store and get wooden dowel that fits inside the tube (1/4") and crazy glue it inside the upright which is too short, at least 1-1/2" inside the tube and enough sticking out to make them the same length. This should be fine as a temporary fix, until it falls apart. The kite will constantly want to turn to one side if the lengths are unequal. Everything on most multi-line kites should be bilaterally symmetrical.

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OR! Buy a 1/4" wooden dowel that's 36" long and say heck with the crazy glue. Cut the 34.2" tube down to 31" and have a spare for the 1.5. I just brought down one of my Rev 1 classics with the swivel clips, when the lawn dries out I'll fly it with a set of equalized lines, and report back.

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Ok, back with some results. I connected my equalized lines directly to the swivel clips, kite wouldn't get off the ground too much reverse. Brought my top lines to the last knot out it got the kite off the ground inverted but still poor reverse but a lot of forward. Added a leader with knots from another set of handles to each of the top swivel clips on the kite, result = flies like a dream. One thing I'll try because I don't know if that makes a difference, is to remove the leader at the kite swivel and add it to the handle's leader.

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You say "cracked off". What do you mean by this? Is it literally broken off or just rough looking? A photo might help.

I don't recall anymore whether you need to add the 6-7 inches to the top or the bottom lines when using equal length control lines. That is going back some 22 years for me.

When you have the REV set up, line attached and handles vertical does the REV lean forward and tries to start or is it leaning backwards and you can't start it?

If it is leaning to far forward then you need to attache 6-7 inch leaders to the top lines.

If it is leaning to far backwards then you need to attache 6-7 inch leaders to the lower lines.

It is rough looking with a short crack. The long one is just rough looking.

I can't remember the exact problems on the test flight. My memory is much shorter than 22 years, but I am going to print your explanation and bring some extra line to the field to make a leader if necessary. I'm also going to wrap the spar ends that are on the ends not in the ferrels with thread and soak with super glue. I've had great success with this fix. It's real hot today on the Gulf Coast so I might wait until this evening.

gallery_5512_649_25230.jpg

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