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What's the best length?


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Hi, all,

Not really my first Rev but first indoor. Some indoor Revs come with line sets, is there a length to ask for? I know it depends on the height of the ceiling but are there any other things to consider? Weight, length etc.



PS I am posting this in other Topics, just in case.

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I have 22 footers if there's enough room (like in Wildwood) and a special 8 foot length for flying at a specific location in the Nat'l Air & Space Museum (under the UAVs, one of them is only 14 ft from the floor).

Very often you simply take an old set of 120's and cut 'em down. Maybe one line broke jacking around against the sea-wall? Now they are 100 ft. Next they get kind of ragged at this length so you make a a couple of sets of 46ers. One of these will get hacked down on site for a custom length. Maybe you fold two in half and divide. Or pinch all four part way along the length, melt, knot and fly. I use a forceps for knot making so it's very repeatable, no sleeving and 90 pound line so it doesn't snag every molecule of crap on the floor. Laser Pro is like WIRE, Skybond is slicker and easier to see in my opinion. (I use both)

Getting a set of indoor handles that you connect with I found very difficult. I finally settled on these little dinky tubers, they're extremely short as well. They are so light in weight though, that the kite can carry 'em underneath in a glide. You can decide as you walk parallel with that fully released glide, whether to re-grasp the handles again or snag the leading edge instead.

I currently use a custom orcon Rev-styled kite with a "Breeze" leading edge and point 125 tube down-spars (2nd GEN ~ Ashworth). Since the frame is so delicate (and flexible!) you need to add a longish bridle to prevent distortion upon pilot commands. There are also magic stick type structures but Dave doesn't connect the two halves with the bridge line.

I couldn't connect with the stock indoor Revolution kite. I want my kites to be like a set of golf clubs. Each one feels like the others but performs best in different circumstances. That means you have to fiddle with them a lot. Or, in the example of Dave's orcon efforts, that cost me a Revolution kite bag and a industrial light table from a commercial printer. Because the moment I touched it I had to have that darn thing, not one like it,..... the very one in front of us.


Orcon sucks as kite building material. It even sticks to itself when you roll it up! It's about as strong as potato chip bag with a big slit in the side. It's even printed with some safety message every few feet in opaque white. You can't sew orcon, it has to be bonded, it only comes in oyster white. You can't have a sharp corner in your graphics or construction, nice smooth gradual turns (big diameters) are mandated. Oh but the flight dynamics make up for everything else. I don't care if it's durable or ragged looking. When you send this kite into a glide you can go to the bathroom and return before it hits the ground! Send it towards a smooth wall and it magnetically sticks and lowers itself magically to the floor. You can time this maneuver with a sundial!

Indoors the flying conditions are always the same, except for the height limits. I envy anyone who has a steady practice location. You can even flail indoors!

The buying public is ready for the helium's introduction. The best of both worlds, blending the indoor with an SUL, using the platform size we all appreciate plus a bridle so it instantly feels right!

We're lined-up Ben, . . . .summer is here, no wind time and a new design only on the horizon so far?

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