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Leader question


jbrooks515
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Thanx, just ordered 10ft of 100# bridle line. First attempt of making these so I'll be sure to try to leave plenty extra. Had a thought on the stock handles... Could you snip the rings off the handles and just knot the leaders straight into the holes for less snags?

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Do NOT thread your line in the holes! The burrs and sharp metal will cut them in minutes. Other fliers have posted their plans for doing so on the forum. I just copied what someone else did. Use #8 (or #10?) wall anchor and screw. Insert the anchor and then screw into the end of the handles. Leave about 1/8" and larks head the new leader around the screw. Maybe wrap the handle a couple of times with electrical tape to cover and burrs and the holes. Keep the old cap and poke a new hole near the top for the leader to thread through. Place on the cap and knot your leader. Repeat for all ends.

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Leave the handles as they are, the burrs in the metal will rip the line. 100# bridle line is pretty thin stuff. But for now you can unknot your leaders and use them single instead of double. Also, if you have a newer exp, that bridle line is more then 100# just for comparison to the leaders you currently have.

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!00# bridle line will work just fine, especially doubled up! Make sure as you knot to start from the handle end and work outwards with your knots! And make sure that the two leaders are as close to the same as you can make them!

There's a video here that shows how to make the stock handles "snagless" and your cost is about $2.00 and your time to do the work!

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100 pound hi-test bridle line is the perfect leader stuff. Double strands, but placing the position knot(s) in only one of the two legs. Then it's easy to move, less danglie-crap to tangle when flying slack-line too

ideally the leaders on the flying lines should be made from this same material (remove the braided spectra core, just using the 40# Dacron sheath)

I'd make the top leader just short of reaching across the gap between the two attachment points.

Brake adjustments are done on the bottom leaders (muscle memory for 3D-stuff & the further out you can reach ~ the more impact on the kite ~ for a "catch") Long throw handles get longer leaders.

your mileage may vary

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Thanx, just ordered 10ft of 100# bridle line. First attempt of making these so I'll be sure to try to leave plenty extra. Had a thought on the stock handles... Could you snip the rings off the handles and just knot the leaders straight into the holes for less snags?

Yes, the plug and screw method works fine, check out Watty's YouTube channel he's done a good tutorial. The only thing I will say is if you have been flying Revs for a while do the break line leaders, but leave the top leaders alone, they don't needed doing and I found that the slightly altered anchor point messed with my grip.

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Thanks for the input. Found the video for the no snag handle mod and I must say that's a good trick. Probly be doing this also soon. Couldn't change my order on the lime so I'm going to stay with the 100 and just double it up to be sure. I think I am going to just do the top leaders to start and leave the bottoms for now. Will see how this works out and go from there.

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When you do the no-snag deal you might want to look at the threadless shank oval head stainless or zinc plated screws. Seems like many pan or round head screws especially the hot dipped galvanized have sharp areas including threads that go all the way up to the screw head could do damage to the leader line under those thread protectors/rubber caps. Even if you don't put the thread protectors back on your handles those leaders are going to rub against the sides of those screw heads every time you fly in reverse or hit the brakes. I made a set, it was fun, I rather flip the hog rings back to the front with thumbs.

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I believe you said you haven't been flying much? If so, the small amount of length you gain modding the handles is pretty negligible, you wouldn't notice the difference! Unless you had flown enough to be used to the handles at a certain length.

As far as the threads cutting leaders, chuck the screw in a drill and use a file to knock down any sharp edges!

If you do the mod, be very careful, there is a very sharp burr under the vinyl cap and can cut you if not careful!

I used this mod for many years very successfully with no problems!

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Everyone learns and ends up with a different preference, but I am redoing my leaders to add length to both. I'm a novice, but as I have flown more I have certainly noticed the difference of adjusting the brake leaders and I am going back to lengthen them.

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I recommend lengthening the tops. The stock bottoms are long enough, and IMHO you don't need any more than one knot in the bottoms (although I actually have two until the pigtail wears out).

Take a look at the leader lengths that John Barresi uses. The bottoms are relatively long and the top ones are probably twice longer than the bottoms. This is very useful when you begin doing catch and throw. Allows you to grab the leaders way out there instead of the flying line which can cut you quite badly.

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Quick question... Got this leader line in today and before I started I had the thought of if I needed to sleeve it or if it would be fine as is. Stupid newbie question I know, bit I'd rather ask. Thanks

There are no stupid questions... no need to sleeve leader line (unless it's your preference hehe), in fact leader line can usually can be used as sleeving material (core removed)!
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