Theresa Posted November 29, 2012 Report Share Posted November 29, 2012 Very cool! Thank you Rev!! http://www.thekiteshoppe.com/products/Revolution-1.5-Standard-Travel-Tote-Package.html http://www.thekiteshoppe.com/products/Revolution-1.5-B-Series-Standard-Travel-Tote-Package.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beach Posted November 29, 2012 Report Share Posted November 29, 2012 I really love this set up...... Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robtulloch Posted November 30, 2012 Report Share Posted November 30, 2012 That is a really good idea! Any plans to do something similar with a B2? Tapatalk for iPhone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnmitchell Posted November 30, 2012 Report Share Posted November 30, 2012 With the new three piece LE rods, it should be small enough to fit in a normal suitcase, or? Now the REV II with the two piece LE was a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robtulloch Posted November 30, 2012 Report Share Posted November 30, 2012 Even at 600mm it can be a little tall for some hand luggage. Tapatalk for iPhone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnmitchell Posted November 30, 2012 Report Share Posted November 30, 2012 Even at 600mm it can be a little tall for some hand luggage. Tapatalk for iPhone. I fully agree when it comes to "hand" luggage. You could do as Mark Lummas did when he inspired the idea of shorter travel 1.5 rods several years ago. He took a set of rods and cut them in half with a high grade extremely fine saw. Then he added inner ferrules to every other rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robtulloch Posted November 30, 2012 Report Share Posted November 30, 2012 I fully agree when it comes to "hand" luggage. You could do as Mark Lummas did when he inspired the idea of shorter travel 1.5 rods several years ago. He took a set of rods and cut them in half with a high grade extremely fine saw. Then he added inner ferrules to every other rod. I am going to do just that, right after I get a new frame. Just incase. I'll start with the 2 wrap. Tapatalk for iPhone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnmitchell Posted November 30, 2012 Report Share Posted November 30, 2012 It is very important to use a the proper saw. Using something like a simple every day hacksaw could damage the ends in such a way that the rod could split length wise. The thing is you probably would not see these cracks. But you will later, when the rod fails. I have heard that some of the guys use a high speed rotary saw such as a "Dremel" type. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kwmf Posted November 30, 2012 Report Share Posted November 30, 2012 And it's a good idea to tape the area you're going to cut before the actual cutting. I've used the Dremmel method to cut about 3/8 of an inch off a SLE spar for a Blast and I've flown it many times since under power with no ill effects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REVflyer Posted November 30, 2012 Report Share Posted November 30, 2012 know that those extra ferules will also make the frame stiffer, a P-90 SUL frame flies like a 3 Wrap when cut-down to travel length. A green race travel frame is easily as stiff in flight as the 4 wrap standard we are all experienced with currently Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robtulloch Posted November 30, 2012 Report Share Posted November 30, 2012 So, if I cut up a 2 wrap and use hollow ferrules, that should give stiffness of a 3 wrap? Tapatalk for iPhone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kitefantex Posted November 30, 2012 Report Share Posted November 30, 2012 I always used a Dremmel with the thin grinding wheel. It puts out some dust so be careful The saw will split the fibers some if not careful. Another safety precaution would be to spread a light coating of epoxy or super glue around the outside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REVflyer Posted November 30, 2012 Report Share Posted November 30, 2012 So, if I cut up a 2 wrap and use hollow ferrules, that should give stiffness of a 3 wrap? Tapatalk for iPhone. Here's my weak response to your concern. personally?, I'd refrain from using hollow ferules ( if given a choice), I actually prefer them to be solid & four inches in overall length also! Stiffness is both personally experienced and measurable scientifically. My experience with travel frames says "it goes two positions stiffer" if it is cut down to half the standard length. I did no physical science testing, but I have played around with lots of brands and hybrids over the years. so now you only need to chart YOUR available frames. My lightest weight and most flexible frame-set on upwards to the heaviest/stiffest ~ a P-90 leading edge and either 2 wrap tapered down spars or a tapered tube called "response 12" from SS ~ Zen frame ~ 2 wrap (professional) ~ Race Frame ~ 3 wrap (ultra light) ~ P-400 skyshark ~ green race frame ~ 4 wrap (stiff) ~ 6 wrap (very rare, mine were cut down from a Beautiful Evil kite) ~ SLE tubes (ultra light ~ 3 wraps, much bigger diameter 7/16ths instead of a 1/4 inch) ~ SLE (heavy,... i think they're 4 wraps) It should also be noted that there are frame members available that are only for dedicated indoor kites, those are not included above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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