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rubber tension/ B pro std/ race frame


albroswift

Question

I'm sure this is covered already but I'm on the beach with a smart phone and can barly see the screen...

Brand new B pro std and race frame, sail seemed to twist around the spar at i would guess about 10 mph plus wind. Tighened the bungis, but hate messing with a brand new sail.

Is it possible to much wind for that frame?

Thanks--

Al

(Ocean shores, WA)

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Don't think there is any difference. Tubes aren't marked differently.

You could tie an overhand knot on the outside of the endcap to keep the bungee from sliding through toward the middle. Might be worth a try. Easy to undo.

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L/E= leading edge. Sorry for the typing, smart phone. Is knotting the bungee a typical tune? I had the frame in my old sle andit seemed to center up prettyy good. Another thing i noticed was bridal on one side went inboard of the cap, the other one was outside. Made them both as in the photos, helped a little but the sail still wants to pull to the inside of the spar under load.

Thanks again--

Al

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Hey Al, all the rods/tubes on a 1.5 frame are the same length - 31 inches - that includes original race, green race, 2-wrap, 3-wrap, 4-wrap, etc.. Some folks even mix the rods up to get a special feel ... 3-wrap center and 2-wrap wings for example.

Obviously the center tube stays in the center 'cuz the ferrels are glued in place, but even that tube is 31 inches long. As a side discussion, you should consider periodically rotating the verticals and the lending edge rods to prevent wear rings from forming where the verticals and the leading edge rods cross.

Bazer sews an extremely accurate sail, however, the tolerance stack-up of all the componets will necessitate some fine tuning of the bungies ... even right off the assembly table. I would guess that Bazer assembles the Pro's based on an average bungie setting. If your sail is a little lose for the way you fly, don't worry ... just snug it up a little. Sail tightness, like many things with Revs, is a personal preference.

Now, where are the pictures of where you're flying? You usually end up in some very neat places!!!

Cheers,

Tom

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Hey Al, all the rods/tubes on a 1.5 frame are the same length - 31 inches - that includes original race, green race, 2-wrap, 3-wrap, 4-wrap, etc.. Some folks even mix the rods up to get a special feel ... 3-wrap center and 2-wrap wings for example.

Obviously the center tube stays in the center 'cuz the ferrels are glued in place, but even that tube is 31 inches long. As a side discussion, you should consider periodically rotating the verticals and the lending edge rods to prevent wear rings from forming where the verticals and the leading edge rods cross.

Bazer sews an extremely accurate sail, however, the tolerance stack-up of all the componets will necessitate some fine tuning of the bungies ... even right off the assembly table. I would guess that Bazer assembles the Pro's based on an average bungie setting. If your sail is a little lose for the way you fly, don't worry ... just snug it up a little. Sail tightness, like many things with Revs, is a personal preference.

Now, where are the pictures of where you're flying? You usually end up in some very neat places!!!

Cheers,

Tom

Forgot the Canon's, but Ill snap a few with the camera phone and post them tomorrow, looks like it's shaping up to be a "A Day At The Beach" tomorrow at the beach!

Thanks for the tips!

Al

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Ensure the top side (leading edge side) of the vertical end caps are not loose then tighten up the bottom end caps.

I have my full sail pro hanging in the shower drying right now I simply cannot induce that last photo at all. I can get it past the bungee knot and it will stay there because its stuck on the outside of the knot, but the second I press the knot out the way it pops back to position.

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Flew with 50# 120's yesterday about 10++mph and handeled pretty good with the bottom bungees knotted about half length. Didnt think about the top bungees, look at them next time. Before tightening the sail was actually pulling right past the wing spar on the inside.

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