Jump to content


Forum Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Posts posted by REVflyer

  1. simple modifications to be considered?

    no bridle

    different bridle (less slop = better low wind performance)

    addition of training wheels/magix stiks

    moveable weights system

    advantages of a heavy stiff leading edge

    advantages of a flexible, light weight leading edge

    These are questions I'm asked frequently, ....

    How to confirm lines are equal lengths

    How to determine how much "REVERSE' to add in your handle tuning

    How do you practice for one-handed flight

    When should I use short handles vs long

    the use of sleeving discussion

  2. the absolute easiest adjustment for better low wind performance is longer throw handles.  You can add more movement (float, stall, reverse, hard pull, inverting, flat-spin) with a bigger "throw" in each grip.

    don't squeeze the angry cobra either!, instead gently grasp a baby chick,.. (fly with a light, delicate grip, using finger motions)

    use shorter line lengths, 30-50 feet

    replace parts with lighter pieces

    add more surface area to the sail

    change to a more responsive bridle, in fact, . .... try flying without any bridle at all!

    Your next kite should be a 1.5 SUL w/a two wrap (Professional) frame, but continue to use solid carbon ferules

    Have fun as you go thru the experiments, you will learn a lot by playing around with the kite, not just by practicing (which you'll also do a lot of)

    See if you can find a local "coach", that alone will cut years off of your learning curve.


    maryland, usa

  3. No plans, but you can build one yourself and not fail.

    You want a little more surface area, a little less weight and no tangle points anywhere on the kite.


    ~Increase the center vee to 12 inches,

    ~increase the down spar lengths to 32-1/2,

    ~dump the venting at the leading edge,

    ~extend the sail corners to the absolute ends of the sticks

    ~ build a bridle that's directly attached to the

      leading edge at the center, not inches away

    ~tighten the hinge where the two bridle pieces connect to

     NO more than 5/8's of an inch!

    ~use double faced 3M 9460 adhesive for assembly, iron

     the adhesive to seal it forever

    ~send me a personal email and I'll forward a PDF of the bridle

     board dimensions (designed for 100# hi-test bridle line)

    You can see an example of this design modification on our club's web-site < http://www.wowkiteclub.com/ > as a tie-dyed R/W/B kite


    maryland, usa

    PS:  Don't neglect the advantages of longer throw handles if you want a quick-fix towards the lower end of the wind range on any quadline kite.  That makes more difference than anything and is the easiest fix of 'em all!

  4. I have also replaced the  "down spars" with light weight tapered Skyshark rods.  Between that addition and longer throw handles you can fly the kite very reliably in 5 or 6 mph.

    I'm from the land of no-wind, so all my modification efforts are always about a tighter sail (which the speed series doesn't need!), as well as lowering the overall weight.

    The speed series will dead-launch!  

    Instead of the "catch" we all know and love so much, the speed series does this kind of horse-shoe shaped flight when you try to jerk it from the sky.  It seeks the downwind again and gradually turns away from your pull to face downwind again.  I have run really fast downwind to do the catch there, since I can't get it to return to me at an up=wind position, HA!

    You'll have a ton of fun with this kite, but it IS fast, so be ready and keep us informed.


    maryland, usa

  5. Here's a addition,

    thread some 100# high-test bridle line thru all the end caps, all the way around the entire sail, following the parameter.  Then get some longer throw handles (if you don't have 'em already!) so you can flip the kite inside out at will, anywhere in the window.

    The Speed series does this trick quite effortlessly.  Just snap your thumbs powerfully at the kite and maybe add a step forward as well when first learning.  The kite will snap inverted and then back again as fast as your can manipulate the handles.

    It looks way cool too!


    maryland, usa


  6. I wanted better performance than the stock bridle offers.  My kites "feel" better, particularly in light wind conditions.  (Naturally that could just be one person's opinion!)  In my own defense though, I've retro-fitted dozens of kites for people with a custom bridle.

    If you are happy with what is available from the factory, great!  You have saved a bunch of time and dough.  Creating a better bridle is a matter of significant time in testing.  Our club began the journey in 1999 and it continues on even now, although the changes have become miniscule since we started the project.

    Our goal was a quad that could fly in no wind, but still use the SLE tubes in the leading edge sleeve.  As you can imagine a lot of effort went into prototypes and testing to reach this objective.

    Do you need a replacement bridle?,.... "NO".  Would you notice the difference on your kite?  Many have made the change and I get requests occasionally, particularly after allowing other to try out one of my kites.

  7. How to make a bridle board:

    Insert eyelet screws into a durable piece of wood, exactly in position when each loop ends, so the bridle is affixed tight to the board.  How tight?, I don't know, . . .... but you'll have to duplicate the previous effort, so whatever you think is going to work out consistently must be the right answer!

    Always pull any directional changing loops or knots tight & at right angles, whenever possible.  This makes tying and untying much easier.

    If a bridle leg has two sides (Like the ACROSS component does), build the board so assembly goes forward and then backwards across the wood, parallel.  Don't build a half a bridle leg and assume you'll match it up with the mirrored half during the tying phase.  You have to be able to lay the completed bridle onto the eyescrews and insure it matches up perfectly and it is tight!

    Now you have to untie each of the knots (and see how much line length was used up within it).  Take a Sharpie Pen and mark a tiny spot underneath each of the knots, or whatever works for you, but it is absolutely necessary to return "the standard" to it's original exact positioning, after careful measurements.

    Draw out the bridle line tight, make marks on the board where the bridle leg components begin and end (for each of the knots or loops).  

    Insert a indicator, or label the type of knots used in each of these locations also.

    Now buy a set of forceps and learn to tie the knots used on your board exactly the same, using this tool to pinch and hold as necessary.  Exact duplication is the goal!

    "Grip" or pinch direclty onto the marks placed into the original bridle (remember?, you placed them there before untying it, right?

    . . . with the sharpie?)  Butt the knot up against the forceps for repeatability.

    I recommend a silver Sharpie as the marking pen, if you want to make Black bridles.  I wears off eventually and is visible enough for assembly.

    This sounds like a lot of work, but from a repeatable standard you can try variations by direct comparison.  You can return to the board and get back to stock measurements at any time.

    Eventually you'll develop a bridle that's tuned to suit your purposes and conditions perfectly.  Along the way you'll learn a lot and enjoy the journey.  Each day you fly, you'll become a little more familar with your wing.  Completely different flying conditions and yet you are comparing a single variable each time out.  

    I've done this process at least three times between friends in our local kite club.  We take a kite we all own and enjoy, then we chase all the variables in a bridle, sometimes with a specific objective.  The first few options are going to be big changes (literally inches!), eventually though it gets down to little 1/16ths or less.

    PS: Whatever line was used to create the board has to be used in the future as well, as the dimensions and marks are based upon how much line length was used-up within the knots.  Changing the raw material size (from 100# to 170# just as an example) necessitates a new set of marks & possibly repositioning the eyescrew locations too!

    • Like 2
  8. May I recommend you consider using the 170# High test bridle line instead of the dacron, particularly if sand is the normal surface you fly from?  It's much easier to tie and undo, plus I'd wager "more durable besides".  The factory bridles are made out of the 100# stuff, but heavier duty is available if you want it.

    After you get your replacement bridle tuned exactly to your liking on the kite, then take it off and make a bridle board.

    (Thereafter replication will be real easy, if you ever wanted another!)

  9. WOW went to the Washington Monument for it's monthly 1st Sunday fly this past weekend.

    Winds were good enough to fly some pairs and team quadline stuff.  Naturally we're disorganized, using different kite frames and line lengths etc.

    Jim Cosca and I flew our Sainz 1.5's on about 90 feet of line and grinned the whole afternoon.  Mike Mosman and Dave Ashworth joined in and we had a fantastic time together, until Mike snagged one of the flag poles surrounding the monument.  Eventually he cut his bridle and freed the darn thing.  Nobody was going to flying it out of that entanglement!

    Dennis Hawley filled in whenever somebody took a break.  I wish we had a photograph or two, . . but nobody stops flying to capture the moment.  I think we had five or six REVs up at once for brief moments.  

    My red one is framed as an SUL and Jimmy Cee's is the standard configuration on a yellow sail.  They looked fantastic together.  Jim's IQuad training was beneficial, but honestly we each had tunes jammin', so nobody listened when commands were called.

    Worth every penny!

  10. I use anywhere from p-90s to P-400s for the leading edge

    (w/4 inch solid carbon ferrules).  The center spar is cut down, so the 2 outside tubes can be full length of 32-1/2")

    with a discontinued down spar called a "Response 12"

    (these tubes can be cut down to Rev length or just extend the elastic shock cords slightly longer to accomadate the longer tube length) used regardless of the wind strength.

    Personally speaking, . . . the Skyshark tubes are significantly cheaper & more durable compared to anything else I've tried.  I buy the blemished ones in bulk, whenever they are available.

    The replacement bridle is a modified RYV 1.6 model, built closer to the sail with a pretty tight attachment at the center.  The hinge portion is also much tighter & reinforced.  The bridle is specially designed to allow a field recovery (in no wind conditions) with the leading edge inverted.  

    The knots incorporated are small and tight so there's nothing to catch upon during slack line tricks.  The bridle board I use is designed for 100# hi-test bridle line.  I highly recommend this material, because it's easy to tie & untie.  The board demands you tie each knot perfectly before it allows you to go to the next step.

    Tuning adjustments are available by slipping a towpoint knot forward or back on the attachment point loops of the bridle.  I like to have it "close to tuned properly", regardless of what size handles I choose during set-up of the kite.  Then minute adjustments can be finalized at the handles for comfort and the current wind conditions.

    I don't use sleeving either, that's just another tangle point waiting to happen during 3D moves!

  11. I had the "Ben Day" this past Tuesday standing in front of the Kite Connection on Huntington Beach.

    Winds were about 3 to 6 mph all day, my kite is absolutely tuned into this wind range.  There were huge crowds around but I placed a couple of safety cones in my flight zone and stopped everyone from sitting or standing in my area, (sighting safety concerns and my right of first arrival)

    I provided a few lessons, chased the spectators crossing into my flight zone, plus the lifeguards, beach patrol and city cops naturally.  It was a fantastic afternoon, jamming to the music and practicing my slack line tricks.

    People who fly in these conditions all the time are so incredibly spoiled.  Smooth steady winds & gorgeous sights (wink-wink!)

    The next day I came back again, but the wind was stronger and my life returned to normal.  I even met up with Dave (Monkeyboy) for a few laughs late in the evening Wednesday.

    Alas, I'm back in the no-wind DC Metro area again, sitting in my office working on a Friday afternoon, but what a great time I had on this road-trip.

  12. it had better be made to fly and not just hang on the wall!

    I have the kite Ron made for the AKA convention/nationals and as magnificient as it looks it's way tooooo heavy for anything except low teens, smooth wind (beach conditions).

    I beat him and our hero Ben up pretty badly at Wildwood on this very topic, so I'm hoping my frantic pleas have been addressed.


    maryland, usa

  13. Rev 1.5 SUL will fly easier than a REV 1 for most people in no-wind conditions.  John's a junkie for the REV ones, you can't trust him!

    Long throw handles help a bunch, and not just the 13 inchers either!  Really long throws mean less effort.  I have 17 and 19 inch throws, measured across the gap.

    Dump all the sleeving and any extra knots you can eliminate from the bridle or frame.  Many of us cover the knots on the back of the sail or add magix sticks to shed a potential tanngle.

    If you are so inclined, consider dumping the venting at the leading edge.  You don't need that until at least 3-5 miles per hour.

    john's tutorial referenced above will give you tthe techniques to recover your field and enjoy no-wind flying.  I hate the wind, and seldom get any during six months of the year!  I prefer early mornings and dead calm air, everyone can fly in a steady eight off of the ocean.

  14. I don't think either Lam or Alex use the magix stiks, but I sure do!  Scottie Weider does some of the slowest and flatest axels you've ever witnessed.

    I find they assist with a wider wind window (no more dreaded REV-stall at the edge!), also with ground recoveries and slack line tricks.  The single greatest benefit is a to allow a lighter weight frame though, because the sticks spread the energy or stress forces over a greater area.  My two wrap frames can take 10 or 12 miles per hour without damage.

    It's a personal preference to be sure, but the benefits outweight the weight increase in my humble opinion.  

    Teaching is a lot easier on the kite with this addition to the frame also.

    • Like 1
  • Create New...