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Everything posted by makatakam

  1. Sometimes, you and the kite fly as one.
  2. Ditto -- what Wayne said.
  3. Just keep an eye on how much bow there is in the leading edge. If it starts approaching a 90-degree arc, switch to the 4-wrap. That's for the upper wind range. 25 mph-ish with 4-wraps. Lower wind range will depend largely on your skill level. The lowest wind with a full-vent that I would attempt is about 6-8 mph. Your mileage WILL vary. The more brake you can fly with will get you airborne in lower winds. Sounds wrong, but it is true. The more square the sail is to the wind, the more pressure the wind can put on, the more lift is achieved. Don't over-think what you're doing. Instead, feel what the kite wants to do. Your flying will benefit more from working with the available wind, than fighting it. Smile, have fun and don't forget to breathe.
  4. Hi, Hoomi, and welcome to the Rev family and forum. I look forward to flying with you someday, perhaps. Glad you got it out of the bag for another go at it. With the help available here you'll get the hang of it in no time. As long as the bungees have some stretch in them they are ok. Actually, I prefer minimal stretch in the ones above the vertical spars; I like to keep the tops of the spars as close to flush with the leading edge as possible, and when they wear out I usually switch to zero-stretch round shoe laces in some of mine. If you replace them, remember that the amount of tension you want is just enough to keep the sail tensioned equally side-to-side and top-to-bottom. Just enough to keep it flat, not enough to make it very taut. In the photo you posted (great shot), it appears that you could use just a tad more tension at the outer tips of the leading edge, to take out the folds that point to the bottom tips. Smile, have fun and don't forget to breathe.
  5. There are some Spectra fishing lines that will make an acceptable substitute; I believe someone will probably chime in with the exact brand. I saw it here under a different topic. Try searching "fishing line" on this forum. The 150-lb. bridle Dacron is just fine for sleeving. And welcome to the forum. Anything you want to know about kites or kiting can be found here, and over on the KiteLife forum. Join us over there too.
  6. Nick, that's a drawing created in a 3D program, Google Sketchup. I did not make any prototypes of that design, but did make (at my local machine shop) some prototypes of the one shown here above it. I will post some photos of the actual cap in use as soon as possible. Flew them on sand at the IKE retreat this past weekend for two days on sand. Flew another kite with standard caps as comparison. They are awesome. Not a grain anywhere.
  7. makatakam


    Thank you, Lolly, for everything you do!!!!!!! Anyone who feels the same, gimme a "yo".
  8. Exactly, and Theresa can make them too.
  9. Yep, I stand corrected. Flying at MOTS all weekend burnout.
  10. Check the Flying Smiles site, or call Theresa or Elliot at Flying Smiles. They will probably make you some any length you can imagine. The shop is in NC.
  11. Go to page 1 of this topic using the double-left arrow.
  12. Any carbon fiber tubing will work. Of course you will have to cut and install the ferrules yourself. Use a diamond wheel to cut the tubes to get a clean cut that won't splinter. The ferrules should be 75-80mm long. Total cost should be about 200 Krone.
  13. I might as well get some. Heck, the set of six endcaps for it only cost $90. Another ninety for sail material is peanuts by comparison! I'll definitely investigate the possibility. The sail alone will weigh about 25 grams, so anything lighter than 0.5 oz/yd sounds interesting. How is the durability? I want a sail I don't have to repair every time it's flown.
  14. What is this "cuben" you speak of? Definitely interested! This will fit a 1.5 frame, but has nearly 400 square inches more sail area, although I am considering changing the aspect ratio. I would prefer it use a regular 1.5 frame -- we'll see.
  15. My bad -- the kite in the photos is a prototype. The vee will be much closer to square, which is where most of the extra 400 square inches of sail area will come from, although the prototype does not tend to bowtie as much as one would imagine just by its appearance. The sail is held tighter by the bow of the leading edge, which helps to keep both sides working together. You can see how much more it is bowed than the B-Pro standing behind it, with an almost straight leading edge. The frame is a hybrid, but I would have to check to see exactly what is where. I just used some spare tubes from other builds and got lucky, but plan on refining that to perfection also. I believe the LE outers are black race, Center may be two-wrap, Uprights are P90, but I would have to check to be sure. I just got a custom-sized diamond frame from Lolly a week ago that I want to use in the new version, depending on a few other variables, and it will have no bridle like an indoor. I realize I'm way off topic, but here's a drawing of what I'm building.
  16. Re-read this topic. Found quite a bit of useful information. Plan to incorporate some of it in a new project -- as if I really need another new project! Oh well, back to the drawing board.
  17. Just a thought: You may be able to achieve something similar by using a drill, plus it will decrease overall weight.
  18. @Wayne -- I'm kind of working in the other direction that Paul is headed. I want the sail to be tight without stiffening the frame (sticks) so that the lightest puff of wind will keep the sail loaded, increasing the area of the sail without a significant increase in weight, changing the aspect ratio of the sail to give it a characteristic tending towards that of a Speed Series kite, and eliminating the tendency to bowtie and overcontrol in reverse by decreasing the depth of the "vee", and increasing the efficiency of the leading edge mesh by getting rid of it and going to a belt-loop style leading edge. Since a picture is worth a thousand words:
  19. Bump -- The bungee mod I've described here does work, but I have realized that it is too complicated and not easily field-adjustable. To achieve the flexibility of use and the weight reduction I sought at the outset, I decided to redesign the sail attachment hardware "from the ground up" and have come up with what I believe is a viable solution. Stay tuned, will post pics of final design as soon as possible.
  20. I have achieved about a 10 to 1 glide ratio by weighting the bottoms of the uprights, thus changing the center of gravity of the sail. Works well, only adds 3/8 of an ounce of weight, total -- split shot made for fishing fixed inside the tube. We gotta get together and tinker! The "tail weighting" does achieve a glide characteristic similar to that found on the Speed Series kites, specifically the Supersonic, but less dramatic. "The length of this line can be varied, but my experience says it should be a "fist's worth of distance away on the Zen" to keep the widest possible wind range." Do you mean the center line that attaches to the leading edge? I don't understand. If it's that far away it will wiggle left and right, acting as a pivot. I've considered skipping it and attaching the inhauls directly.
  21. No disrespect intended, Paul, but if I bought that kite, the first thing I would do is to cut all that stuff off, and go to a modified cap and bungee arrangement. I've had some custom endcaps made of my own design that you may find interesting. The upright spar keeps the lines from catching on the knot. Only one knot on the back of the sail. When are we going to fly together again? You can check them out when we do! Let me know when you're in the Chicago area again, ok.
  22. @Paul: I'm still trying to get the FB to feel "right" to me. Of course the bumpy Midwest wind is not making comparisons easy. I'm sure that with time I'll get it adjusted correctly, and then be able to play with fine-tuning for specific winds. Is it specifically dimensioned to work with sticks? I prefer "no sticks", so if there is an adjustment I need to make for that, please tell me what it is. @jburka: Oh yeah! Keeping that sail loaded in very light wind makes it sooooo sweet. I've had bystanders say, "I thought you need wind to fly a kite".
  23. Hi, Travis and welcome to the forum. Looking forward to flying with you some day.
  24. And there are many, many other designs on Rev kites. The Eyes design is easy to get and people notice it.
  25. If you made the line sets from power-kite lines they are much stronger and heavier than what is normally used for Revs. Revs usually use 90 or 100-lb line, whereas the power kites start at 150-lb and go up from there. On the average they are in the 250 to 300-lb range. Might be too heavy for it, but with strong enough wind it will fly.
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