Jump to content


Forum Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by makatakam

  1. Yes, I have. They are nearly identical. I tend to fly on the bottom knot closest to the handle, and the second or third knot in on the tops. The only differences in his set-up and mine are that I have three or four more knots on top closer to the handle to accommodate flying other (home-made) quads, and 4- to 5-inch disposable wear extensions on both top and bottom leaders that allow me to grab the thicker dacron instead of the flying line for catch and throw and other tricks. The spectra can cut your fingers, especially when they are wet. The spacing of my knots is a little bit closer than his on top, again to accommodate other kites, so I would say I normally fly about 1.5 to 2 knots more brake. And that is why I'm tempted to re-think what I use. I'm usually 2 knots more brake than others are.
  2. @kwmf Do you normally fly with a lot of brake? I am usually one knot short of maximum brake, and move to maximum for very high and very low wind (<3mph). I give it 2 or 3 knots more go when flying with others so I can keep up with their speed and hold an upright hover without having to constantly pump to maintain altitude. Do you think I may be using too much brake as a standard setting? I find myself flying with at least 2 knots more brake than others. It seems to make the kite feel more "connected" and balanced. Add one knot beyond what my maximum setting is and the kite will not move forward or launch. I may have to revert to initial factory settings and do some experimentation. I don't know. Maybe what feels good to me is less than good.
  3. Vented in front, with the heavier frame in it, since that frame will be supporting the pull of two kites, although with a two-stack it is not absolutely necessary. Use the 90# lines because of the additional pull. The front kite will block some of the wind from reaching the back sail, so the vented sail will allow more wind to reach the back one, and you will want the top of the back sail tilted back about 1/2"-ish more than the front sail. You can leave the bridle of the back kite on it, but it looks better if removed, and will eliminate the wear caused by dragging it around. When you are flying a stack, you fly the back kite and the one(s) in front of it are only "along for the ride", so to speak, although they also add to the lift and pull of the entire assembly. You want to adjust the stack lines so that the entire stack flies as a unit and the trailing kites don't lag behind. If they lag a lot they will cause a great deal of wobble and make control more difficult. The well-adjusted stack will actually fly in slightly lower wind than either of the kites individually. Same amount of drag from the lines and more sail area, so the entire assembly is proportionally lighter. Experienced pilots can fly a full-vent in 4-6 mph wind, and a standard sail in 1-2 mph. It should fly best in 5-8 mph for you. Above that the pull starts to make it more work than fun. Once you get into stacks of four or more kites, the framing and adjustments become more critical and other structural support issues come into play. In a progressive stack (different sizes of sails) the smaller sails usually go in front, but with some work can be made to fly any which way you prefer. Remember, it's not rocket science, just a bit of common sense. Fly, smile, don't forget to breathe. Edit -- stacking lines are usually made from bridle line of adequate strength for the number of kites they must support. For a two- or three-stack standard Rev bridle is fine.
  4. Keeping the sail, top tilted towards you, like this \, lets some wind slide out the bottom. Keeping the sail square to you, like this |, keeps more wind pressure in the sail. No pressure in the sail? Kite drops out of the sky. The more pressure in the sail, the easier it is to keep it airborne. The knots adjust the angle of attack (amount of tilt). In strong wind, you will want to fly with lots of brake so the kite is controlled, and doesn't go shooting off in any direction until you tell it to. That's what Wayne is talking about when he mentions finding the balance point. I know it just sounds weird, and will not make sense until you have tried various combinations of lines, sails, frames, handle lengths, and adjustment points. Don't worry about it too much, just fly. One day it will just click on for you and you'll see it plainly and understand it. If you fly a lot in low winds, you will feel it sooner.
  5. And in minimal wind (0-2mph) you move them out to square the sail to the wind so you can keep the sail loaded without a lot of body movement. Once you've been flying a while it will become instictive; you'll know which knot to move the lines to even before you launch.
  6. Hi, John. I don't think that a flipped bridle would have this effect, although I could be wrong. So that's another variable for me to investigate. I believe the actual cause may be the amount of tension in the bridle and sail creating a harmonic resonance which is amplified by the surface of the sail acting as a sound board. I will try to induce this by making minor changes to the span of the upright bridle leg between the upper and lower attachment points. Obviously, the best kite to try this on would be the NYM, and that is where I plan to start. I will probably not do much about it this season, though, since it's getting cooler than what I'm comfortable in when flying.
  7. Given the inequality of vibration, left to right on the one kite, I'm beginning to suspect that the upright bridle leg may be the cause. I'll try playing with the kites I have and try to induce the vibration by changing length and/or tension.
  8. Two other possibilities that may cause a vibration are: A line, either bridle or flying or bungee stretched at the correct tension like a guitar string or rubber band, similar to how your lines begin humming in strong winds that makes the sail itself act as a sounding board. Google: wind harp. A small portion of sail panel edges that are not sewn together or otherwise attached to each other completely, that the wind activates by blowing onto the edge, like the reed used in some brass and woodwind musical instruments.
  9. @kwmf Hmmmm... very interesting. Now my curiosity is piqued. I would love to investigate the cause of the phenomenon, and of course find a solution. I would like to believe that if I can't solve the mystery, then no one can. One more incentive for me to show up at WSIKF next year. Or maybe I'll just complete my set on the chance I'll get one that does it. Did the kite in which the vibration was dominant on the right side, behave strangely, as a non-symmetrical sail would? Or as one would if the lines were unequal? I have noticed that advanced pilots tend to automatically adjust their inputs when one line is longer/shorter than the others. One possibility for the vibration that comes to mind immediately is from my RC Glider flying days, and that is laminar, as opposed to turbulent air flow over an airfoil. (google: turbulator spar) If the sail is sewn too well it may induce laminar air flow over the wing and create a high frequency flutter (read: vibration). Laminar airflow is reduced or eliminated by using a "turbulator spar" which consists of a raised linear surface running nearly the entire length of the wing perpendicular to direction of airflow. At any rate, you have my attention.
  10. @ kwmf -- is the vibration on the venteds only? I have a standard sail that I have flown 3 or 4 times in different conditions, and haven't noticed any vibration. I was thinking of buying all three vented NYM's, but I would find a constant vibration quite annoying. I have flown the single vent once for a few minutes in about 12 mph and didn't notice any vibration from that one either. I would love to know the cause of the vibration, because if it is simply caused by improper tensioning, it would be a desirable quality.
  11. Different panel layout. Comes in full sail, one-, two-, and three-vent. The venting on the NYM is such that the one-vent falls somewhere between the full-sail and midvent B-series, the two-vent falls between the mid and full-vent B-series, and the three-vent falls between the full-vent and extra-vent B-series. Most say the panel layout and venting on this design make it feel smoother. I agree. The factory framing for this series is, if I recall correctly, the green race rods. I'm sure others will chime in with their experiences. I have the full-sail, and am seriously considering completing the set. I like it.
  12. Sometimes, you and the kite fly as one.
  13. Ditto -- what Wayne said.
  14. Just keep an eye on how much bow there is in the leading edge. If it starts approaching a 90-degree arc, switch to the 4-wrap. That's for the upper wind range. 25 mph-ish with 4-wraps. Lower wind range will depend largely on your skill level. The lowest wind with a full-vent that I would attempt is about 6-8 mph. Your mileage WILL vary. The more brake you can fly with will get you airborne in lower winds. Sounds wrong, but it is true. The more square the sail is to the wind, the more pressure the wind can put on, the more lift is achieved. Don't over-think what you're doing. Instead, feel what the kite wants to do. Your flying will benefit more from working with the available wind, than fighting it. Smile, have fun and don't forget to breathe.
  15. Hi, Hoomi, and welcome to the Rev family and forum. I look forward to flying with you someday, perhaps. Glad you got it out of the bag for another go at it. With the help available here you'll get the hang of it in no time. As long as the bungees have some stretch in them they are ok. Actually, I prefer minimal stretch in the ones above the vertical spars; I like to keep the tops of the spars as close to flush with the leading edge as possible, and when they wear out I usually switch to zero-stretch round shoe laces in some of mine. If you replace them, remember that the amount of tension you want is just enough to keep the sail tensioned equally side-to-side and top-to-bottom. Just enough to keep it flat, not enough to make it very taut. In the photo you posted (great shot), it appears that you could use just a tad more tension at the outer tips of the leading edge, to take out the folds that point to the bottom tips. Smile, have fun and don't forget to breathe.
  16. There are some Spectra fishing lines that will make an acceptable substitute; I believe someone will probably chime in with the exact brand. I saw it here under a different topic. Try searching "fishing line" on this forum. The 150-lb. bridle Dacron is just fine for sleeving. And welcome to the forum. Anything you want to know about kites or kiting can be found here, and over on the KiteLife forum. Join us over there too.
  17. Nick, that's a drawing created in a 3D program, Google Sketchup. I did not make any prototypes of that design, but did make (at my local machine shop) some prototypes of the one shown here above it. I will post some photos of the actual cap in use as soon as possible. Flew them on sand at the IKE retreat this past weekend for two days on sand. Flew another kite with standard caps as comparison. They are awesome. Not a grain anywhere.
  18. makatakam


    Thank you, Lolly, for everything you do!!!!!!! Anyone who feels the same, gimme a "yo".
  19. Exactly, and Theresa can make them too.
  20. Yep, I stand corrected. Flying at MOTS all weekend burnout.
  21. Check the Flying Smiles site, or call Theresa or Elliot at Flying Smiles. They will probably make you some any length you can imagine. The shop is in NC.
  22. Go to page 1 of this topic using the double-left arrow.
  23. Any carbon fiber tubing will work. Of course you will have to cut and install the ferrules yourself. Use a diamond wheel to cut the tubes to get a clean cut that won't splinter. The ferrules should be 75-80mm long. Total cost should be about 200 Krone.
  24. I might as well get some. Heck, the set of six endcaps for it only cost $90. Another ninety for sail material is peanuts by comparison! I'll definitely investigate the possibility. The sail alone will weigh about 25 grams, so anything lighter than 0.5 oz/yd sounds interesting. How is the durability? I want a sail I don't have to repair every time it's flown.
  25. What is this "cuben" you speak of? Definitely interested! This will fit a 1.5 frame, but has nearly 400 square inches more sail area, although I am considering changing the aspect ratio. I would prefer it use a regular 1.5 frame -- we'll see.
  • Create New...