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makatakam

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Everything posted by makatakam

  1. Hi, Jaramir, and welcome to the forum. Click on the "Member Map" tab near the top of the page. There are a bunch of flyers in and around London. If you keep an eye on this forum and the KiteLife forum you will be able to see which of them are active and send one or more of them a PM so you can get together. I know that a bunch of them fly at Dunstable Downs regularly. Welcome to the darkside. Have fun, smile, and don't forget to breathe.
  2. Hi, SPIDER, and welcome to the forum. The JB leaders are exactly what is necessary to fly with control and precision. Trust us all, you will eventually love them. When you first begin to fly Revs, or any quad-line kite, the tendency is to fly on the top knots that are close to the handles. This will only inhibit your ability to learn how to fly. I, and most others who fly Revs, use the last three or four knots furthest from the handles most of the time. For very light (2mph and under) I will use the furthest out. Although using the closest knots makes it easier to launch, it makes it harder to fly because the sail "spills" more wind than it uses. Try to launch on the knots furthest out. If you can't, bring them in one knot. Try again. Continue this process until you can. Each time out try it one knot further out. Trust me, in a few outings your lines will be at least 5 knots out. Watch the tutorial videos available on the KiteLife forum, especially the ones on Launch and Tuning. Find an experienced pilot to fly with. There are tons near you; check the member map here and on KiteLife and get together with them. PM one or more of them closest to you. They won't bite; kite flyers are a friendly bunch, and love helping those who are starting out. Most importantly, have fun, smile and don't forget to breathe. P.S. -- The snagless handles are available from Rev, and/or custom-made. The standard Rev handles can be converted. Check topics on the forums using the key words "snagless" and "handles".
  3. It's been almost a year, here's the result of my tinkering. The leading edge ones do not require creating any new holes, and the outer ones use the top holes. The endcaps are custom machined from Delrin and fit inside the tubes. Total weight of all 6 endcaps and bungees is about 7.25 grams. The white bridle is 90# Spectra. The sail is a one-piece Spiro Line Art.
  4. makatakam

    Club 38

    I watched the Level 2 videos. No, I did not complete Level 1 yet. It's pretty easy to figure out the password for Level 2 if you watch Level 1. I haven't figured out the subsequent passwords yet, but that shouldn't be too difficult. The thing I have noticed is that the written description in both levels of the skills does not match the video it describes, which leads to some confusion about the exact sequence of moves that one should submit in the video required to earn the pin for that skill level. For instance, the written description says "spin 360 left, spin 360 right", which in the video is shown as a 360 to the right and a 540 to the left. There are multiple inconsistencies in the written and visual in both skill levels. This may be intentional, as we all know how difficult it is at the beginning to be consistent with the execution of any move, and the intent may be to merely verify the ability to accomplish it without losing control. Most probably, subsequent levels will require a higher degree of precision. We'll see. It would also be nice if Rev could keep (and show) a list of members and the level each has achieved. A bit of extra bookkeeping, but not arduous.
  5. makatakam

    Club 38

    I have logged into and viewed Level 1, which consists of basic setup, launch, turn and land. I have been flying for seven years, so for me nothing interesting will happen until the upper levels, and I won't receive the login password until after I send video of completing level one. For a total novice the completion of the first four or five levels, I imagine, would be a good way to learn all the basic manouevres. I don't know if there is any way to "proficiency out" of the first two or three levels if one is already beyond the intermediate stages. It will be pretty boring until the upper levels I assume.
  6. makatakam

    Club 38

    Just joined Club 38 -- $38.00 promo price in effect now, plus $7.50 s&h. Curiosity got the better of me.
  7. Come on in, the water's just fine. Remember, the best answer is not always the correct one. Sometimes the obvious can be overlooked by everyone, so jump right in and give us a hand.
  8. HIKE, definitely HIKE! You will not be disappointed. In three or four outings it'll put you a year ahead of where you could get on your own.
  9. Yep, it's difficult to learn on your own, especially in crappy inland wind. Stay with it; the rewards outnumber the frustrations. Look for an experienced pilot to give you a hand. Travel to a kite festival. Find the nearest kite shop. I started on my own also, and it is truly annoying at first, but each time you try you get better, until eventually it just becomes natural. Choose the wind you fly in carefully. Avoid wind below 5mph, above 10mph, gusty and/or variable direction. The only thing you'll learn in those conditions is how hard it is to learn in those conditions. Having the wind be an ally early in the game will help tremendously. Be selective at first; once you have basic control down pat, you may even find crap wind an enjoyable challenge! For now, just play it safe. Also the shorter lines are a bit more difficult at first because everything happens so much faster, and the window is much smaller. Flying near the edges makes it easier to just drop out of the sky. Try to fly in the center half of the window, | |XX|XX| | until you have the basics figured out.
  10. Couldn't say; you haven't told us what you're flying. Moving the attachment points of the top lines two or three knots closer to the handle should get you up in those winds unless your lines are attached to a brick.
  11. Skip the poldo tackle. Once you have another 10 hours of flying time under your belt, that's the first thing you'll probably get rid of. Keep it simple; the more clutter you put in the set-up, the more can go wrong and tangle or snag other components.
  12. Definitely fly with some of the guys in the UK. Someone may be willing to part with a nice used one for a decent price, and they will be able to give you much better advice as to which way you should go, standard, vented......, as opposed to anyone on this side of the big pond. Tons of fliers in the UK. You should be able to hook up with someone. Drive 200 miles if you have to. It will be definitely worth your time.
  13. Hey, darthsean, welcome to the Rev forum and the darkside. Join us on the Kitelife also. Learning on your own won't be easy, but the eventual satisfaction is worth twice each minute of anguish. Those of us who learned without the help of an experienced pilot put up with the same frustration that you are encountering at this stage. Stick with it. Once you begin having those "ah-ha" moments you'll be in kite heaven. Ok, first things first, and please don't take offense if I state the obvious. We need to make sure that everything is as it should be. Do all of this before trying again. The most basic error some folks make at first is to set up the kite with the vertical tubes on the front of the kite. These should be on the back of the kite. Although the kite can be flown this way, it will make it extremely difficult to learn. The next thing to check is that all parts of the bridle are a mirror image of right and left. You can check this by removing the frame and comparing all the lengths of each segment against the other side. They should be equal, to within 1/8", ideally they should be a perfect match. When you set up and install the frame, be absolutely sure that all parts of the bridle have no twists or tangles and come cleanly off each endcap, ideally from the center side of each. Check the flying lines' lengths by laying them all out, detached from the handles. Stake down all four through the loops at one end. Go to the other end and check if they are the same length. Any variance exceeding 1/4" should be corrected. See the line equalization video in the tutorial section. Remember that almost all the twists that appear to be tangles when you are laying out your lines, except maybe one or two, will disappear when you apply some tension to the lines. What appears to be a tangled mess at first is not really there. Now attach your lines at the kite and at the handles, making sure that the upper right at the kite is attached to the upper right handle, lower right to lower right, and the same on the other side. It will be very helpful if someone can assist you once are connected, to position the kite for the next launch after each new attempt. If the kite launches and spins in one direction a few times, you can remove all the twists this created by grabbing both handles together, and as a unit spinning them in the same direction as the kite did. These can also be removed by spinning the kite in the opposite direction, and once you have basic control can be done by spinning the kite as it flies. The kite can be controlled, by experienced pilots with more than 15 twists in the lines. We will do our best to answer all your questions. I recommend watching the setup, line management, line equalization, basic launch and basic control videos available to you on the KiteLife Forum site, over and over until you are sick of watching them, and then watch them a few more times. I watch all of the training videos over the winter months each year, and always find something that will help make me a better pilot. Finally, and I state this with absolute confidence, stick with it and don't give up. The end result of being able to control a Revolution Kite is immense satisfaction, and will put a smile on your face that's hard to erase. If you are in the DC area, or anywhere else, take a look at the member map. PM some of the people near your location. Make arrangements to get together. Kiters are a friendly bunch and always looking for any excuse to go out and fly. Attend a festival or two. Drive 200 miles if you must. It will take a ton of time and frustration out of the learning curve. Most of all, have fun, smile and don't forget to breathe.
  14. Something on one side of the kite is not an exact mirror image of the other side. All things must be symmetrical, within 1/4" to 3/8" at most. The kind of movement you described usually means something is off by at least a couple of inches. Photos of the kite, or video of what it does when you fly it including you in the video would be helpful in diagnosing the cause. Take a look at the member map and see who is closest to you. PM that person and get together. I learned to fly Revs with no help at the very beginning, and it was less fun than it should have been. If you can't fly with an experienced pilot, then post your questions here. There are hundreds of thousands of hours of flying experience here that are at your beck and call. Don't be shy, there are no questions too trivial, we will help with them all. Even if you get a bit frustrated at first, stick with it. The end result of all your efforts will be a smile that can be seen from outer space. Don't forget to breathe. P.S. -- almost forgot, get on the Kitelife forum also if you aren't already. Tons of Rev pilots there too, and some who may not be on the map here.
  15. Hi, Nigel. Yup, what he said. It should fly like your other 1.5, with no issues. One other thing that would make it want to spin is a cracked/broken frame part. Pull the leading edge out of the kite and inspect it and the uprights carefully, by gently flexing and twisting. If you hear a crackle or see a split you will need to replace that section(s). We could probably spot what's wrong if you post some detailed photos of the kite assembled.
  16. Interesting. I may have to try this to see how it changes flight characteristics. This may lead to something good.
  17. Bump -- no one got or sold a Rev since October, really?
  18. You're not doing anything wrong. It will feel weird at first, but you'll get used to it. You can come in towards the handle one or two knots on top at first to make it a bit easier. When you can fly with maximum brake you will have maximum control. Once you are used to it, you will notice that flying in lighter winds is actually easier.
  19. I remember someone mentioning line sets made in Germany. Try Googling it.
  20. One thing people seldom mention, because it is intuitive I guess, is that practicing on short lines will make you learn quicker and become more precise because everything happens much faster. Learn to do it well on 30-ft lines and you will fly like a pro on 120-ft lines
  21. Hi, James, and welcome to the forum. There's a bunch of flyers in the UK. I'm sure someone will chime in soon. A good, friendly bunch. Don't be afraid to try their kites, ask and they will oblige. Listen to their advice, it will save you much time and frustration, unless you are determined to learn the hard way. Have fun, smile, and don't forget to breathe.
  22. 120-foot lines slow things down and increase precision and smoothness. You WILL eventually get a set, especially if you start flying with others. Four flyers on 80's is ok, any more than that is better on 120's.
  23. Ok, a bit more thinking about this and I believe I have solved the problem/difference I have. I have really small hands for a guy, so my neutral position is further towards the top of the handles. More brake allows me to fly with my thumbs on top or near the top of the handles, which also explains why I prefer shorter handles. With the longer handles I give up leverage to the kite and find control more difficult. I have a set of 15", but seldom use them because the shorter ones feel better. I prefer 1-inch diameter grips because of my hand size also, and am considering even thinner for one-handed flying. New snagless 11" handles of my own design are being made for me and I look forward to trying them. Will post results when available, probably in April or May.
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