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flt101

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Everything posted by flt101

  1. One quick check you can do is try one of the rods in a plastic end cap on one of your other revs. Maybe the handles you currently have have extra long leaders, if it doesn't fly in the normal position put the longer leaders on the bottom of your handles. The original lines just clipped to the hog rings on the handles. I agree with John on leaving the 3-piece end caps on the kite.
  2. The bridle line you just got is already sleeved.
  3. Shouldn't notice much of a difference, left is left right is right up is up and down is down. Rods in the exp will slide into the 1.5b, and the 1.5b rods will slide into the exp. Different materials in the sails, different material in the bridles. You flew the 1.5b vented, the difference there was the wind conditions. You would notice more differences between models like Rev 1 to a 1.5 or a blast to a b2.
  4. When you do the no-snag deal you might want to look at the threadless shank oval head stainless or zinc plated screws. Seems like many pan or round head screws especially the hot dipped galvanized have sharp areas including threads that go all the way up to the screw head could do damage to the leader line under those thread protectors/rubber caps. Even if you don't put the thread protectors back on your handles those leaders are going to rub against the sides of those screw heads every time you fly in reverse or hit the brakes. I made a set, it was fun, I rather flip the hog rings back to the front with thumbs.
  5. I'm sure 100# LP bridle line will work fine also. It's the stuff on my 1.5sul's. My fingers are numb and the bigger the diameter like the standard leaders work out better for me trying to get hold of the larks heads.
  6. +41 (75) I waited a few years for the 2000th posting in this topic to become available, I really thought it would get here a long time ago.
  7. Leave the handles as they are, the burrs in the metal will rip the line. 100# bridle line is pretty thin stuff. But for now you can unknot your leaders and use them single instead of double. Also, if you have a newer exp, that bridle line is more then 100# just for comparison to the leaders you currently have.
  8. I'm going to say, go for the full vent, actually that $1 deal sounds like A WIND OF CHANGE offer. Your EXP has a 3wrap so you already have the 3wrap covered. A midvent is dialing-in between a standard sail(EXP) and a full vent. If you'll be flying near Lake Michigan I'm sure the winds will kick up often enough for the full vent.
  9. So what is available, I'd be interested in the string art rainbow done in sul.
  10. hmmm,,, But only needed the sail really, REALLY? Or not really, really? In the global rev count, does that keep your count at 50-something or finally bring it to 60 revs? Just kiddin', I know what you mean!
  11. I've flown on the east coast twice in my life, it is surely different than inland winds! I used the vented rev as much as the midvent, standard and sul. I'd come out of the hotel with a kite, it was the wrong one, I'd go back for a different one, the frame was wrong, I'd go get another frame, the wind would get stronger, I'd go get different kite again, that frame was wrong, by the time I started to get it right, 4 days later, it was time to go home. I know I should buy an extra vent, just in case. Coastal winds are a lot different.
  12. Now that you are hooked on Revs there may be a time you will want to travel to the coast to fly, if I may suggest, you should take a beach chair or a 1.5 full vent with you. The way it usually works is, you get to the coast with a standard and midvent then the winds are too strong so you sit 99% of the time in your beach chair. OR! You get 1.5 full vent and get to fly 94% of the time no matter what the wind is while you are at the coast. As for the missing 6% that covers the extra vent you wish you had there also.
  13. To me, 1/2" past the halfway point isn't enough to worry about, I've seen these ferrules in so many different lengths, from the shortest ones to the longest ones they might differ my a few inches. If I lived in the desert or by a beach I'd put the ferrule in while the rod is under some sand! And, we all know how great sand works holding rods and ferrules together or rods and endcaps together. I have some rods that the ferrules came loose, I've put them back in without glue, they won't go too far. Actually I want to remove some ferrules from my SPL rods, no need to hind those rods inside leading edge pocket.
  14. Do you mean the ferrule is sticking out 1/2" further than the ferrule on the other side of the rod? If so, that isn't anything to worry about, ferrule lengths are sometimes different in the same rod, remember crazy glue doesn't have any shear strength to speak of that's why it broke loose in the first place, you could put it in the freezer for awhile and tap on the side of the ferrule to break it free, acetone/nail polish remover will work too. I wouldn't worry about it unless you attach it to a helmet and hang from a beam as see on TV.
  15. Yes, I saw this history was going no where after a few attempts to introduce a few of my rare classic revs to this project.
  16. Sounds like a good start, on the 250# or 300# lines, would that be the line set? or the stack lines? and what about the bridle? In Laser Pro Bridle line it's 100# for sul's and 180# for standard 1's 1.5's and 2's to my understanding,, would it be reasonable to assume that 300# bridle line is needed as well? I have some 5 and 6wrap 1.5 rods, that doesn't do a Rev 1 any good, but while it is mentioned to use a 4wrap frame and slide a 2 or 3wrap leading edge into the leading edge pocket to increase the ability to fly a 1.5B in even higher winds, would using that method in the first 2 Rev 1's in the stack stiffen it up? Actually the 1/4" rods slide right into the SLE rods for another way possible way of stiffening up the leading edge, I'm not sure how much stress is on the verticals to warrant need for 5 or 6wraps. So far the list is 210' stack line. 320' of line set line. 35' or so of bridle line.
  17. I'm sure Kent will pop in and share his info, I'm not looking at pulling my arms out, I want to fly it like a Rev 2, lightly, so how can I "dial in" this stack?
  18. I've looked in the stack topics for specifics on materials used for stacking but I can't locate the info I want to know. I have some Rev 1's I want to make a 6-pack with, the info I can't locate is. 1. What is the stack lines made of, and what strength # would be right for 6 rev 1's or more? 2. What is the bridle strength # used for this 6 pack? 3. On the leading edges I'm limited to 4wrap and lighter, as all the leading edges are tied together is there any need for more than 4wraps?
  19. It isn't something that you want to avoid, it's all part of a learning curve, I fly a lot of slack line, pushing the kite to the limits, sometimes it fall out of the sky, sometimes I catch it sometimes I don't. The only way of not having it happen again in the future it to never fly again, and you sure don't want to do that!
  20. What happened to make it spin over and over to the left is, the right top line wrapped onto the end cap, knot or washer, if it spins out of control to the right, the top left line wrapped onto that stuff. Next time you go out, wrap left or right top line on purpose on one of those points. You'll see it happen and know why.
  21. I must say, if this is your first time flying and you are going to do it where the sea breeze is strong, there will probably be a lot of other people enjoying that area for other than flying kites, I would try to get some practice in where there isn't people around that might get injured. If the kite is new and you bought it rtf your handles won't be connected yet, equalize your lines close to home before attaching the handles, don't do it at a crowded beach somewhere. Good luck Luke. Be Careful.
  22. Kent says on the bottom verticals, there is already one vertical bottoms on each side of the 1.5, so it sounds like just 2 more stack lines to cover the remaining of a supersonic's extra 2 bottom verticals. Nothing mentioned about the extra 2 top verticals on the supersonic. I would think 4 extra lines also, but I won't stack supersonics.
  23. It may take an hour or so to untangle your lines but they will separate, just take your time and do one line at a time and set it aside until you have the 4 lines next to each other, pair them off with a handful of screwdrivers then back on your handles and winder. Check out the line management video and this will probably be your last tangled mess. I don't use the figure 8 wrap on the quad sets, just a straight wrap.
  24. What do you mean by tangles? Like a spaghetti mess? You're not SOL, just need to take your time to separate all 4 lines and start all over. Sounds like way to early to be thinking 1.5b pro's, they'll crash and burn just as easy as the exp only with a higher price tag involved. Check out the video on line management, maybe you started out wrong, with your line set.
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