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flt101

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Posts posted by flt101

  1. About the only thing I saw in your video was the lack of wind to try and keep the kite in a hover, I would want more wind to do what you was doing in that amount of camera space, and trying to hold a spot just for the camera makes for a hard row to hoe, looks good to me!

    For just flying instead of just hovering you'll find the right balance you'll be looking for different each time you fly, I always fly to music and the music is different albums, mostly old stuff.

    You hover looks fine!

    • Like 1
  2. Yes, that's about what I'm saying, as far as the science of the wobble. If you can picture the girl at the circus tied to a wheel spinning around as the knife thrower throws knifes at her. If she was tied to that wheel flying a rev turned upside down, she would be flying forward with handles vertical brakes towards her feet, but you would see the kite flying upside down as her feet are facing straight up.

    The biggie is, when you're hovering forward your lines don't touch each other. Why limit the no touch to just the forward hover if it is possible to hover inverted without the lines touching each other also?

    If you have your brakes both facing outward, one of the lines will touch another line placing force on the other line causing a correction that isn't equal on both hands. That equals wobble. If in reality you could do cartwheels while flying forward in your eyes, others would see the kite spin and the lines would never touch or cross each other.

    I just went by the "science behind the wobble" If a bird landed on one of your 4 lines it would throw the balance off. Just watch your lines touching each other in the hover, then try avoiding any lines touching each other in the same hover next time out.

  3. I think if you eliminate some of the extra pressure on a line or 2 it will become a smoother hover. If both brakes are pointed outward one line will be over another on the one side. If the left side line are above the right lines and both brakes are facing left none of the 4 lines are touching each other. If the right lines are above the left lines and both brakes are pointed right none of the 4 lines will be touching each other. If none of the lines are touching another line there is no extra pressure forced onto a line causing undue wobble.

    You can see this in action by turning your body along with the direction of the kite, naturally you can't fly standing on your head, but you can get pretty close to looking at the kite upside down and your brakes pointed pretty much straight up in the air, and you'll see very little wobble, you might pass out going back to a normal position too quick, but when you wake up you'll remember none of the lines put extra pressure on another line.

    That's my story (and I'm sticking to it).

  4. I can relate to Ben's post #43 and slacking 3 of the 4 lines connected to the kite, holding onto that thermo, by a thread. On the other hand I would love to try a French Bridle on a 1.5 just to see if it really does anything great.

  5. It sounds like the only people that can explain it are Flying Smiles or Crazy Drivers, because to me restrictor plates or legs would cause restriction, and if you are already starting with slack once the rods start bowing in the wind, it will increase the slack in those 2 legs, and could be cut off and have a better use as dental floss.

  6. I remember looking at some measurements of the French bridles, center was 10cm down and 69cm over on those "restrictor legs", or whatever the next person wants to call them. What do those measurements even mean? 69cm from the center barely makes it to the top vertical cap, no less making it to the vertical cap from 10cm below the center using 69cm legs. The distance from 10cm down from center to the hole in the top vertical caps are 70cm. So that 1cm less should cause tightness rather than slack.

    Personally I would buy a French bridle as a pattern only, then make adjustments as you're making one from scratch.

    With that bridle in your hands you can at least take measurements from all the points and see how they are coming up with the completed bridle. I see 14 different measurements per side, how many of the measurements match up to the bridle you have?

  7. Don't worry about the date of the kite, you got a good deal, the rods look brand new the kite looks like it has one little spot on the right side. I have several revs a lot older than that by 15 year, they are in perfect condition, buy some nice lines and handles and you'll fly it for the next 20 years or more.

  8. Yes on those calm days pop the green race in the exp for a test drive. There's not much difference in switching the vertical rods so you could actually keep the green race leading edge in the nym put the 3wraps on its verticals, then take the other 2 green race rods and put them in the exp as the leading edge outer rods with the 3wrap center.

    • Like 1
  9. Yes there is room. One set is held in with the end caps, the other set is free floating but going nowhere. Not really needed but it's a way of getting a lighter frame as long as Andy already has a 3wrap frame on the exp. Usually the 1.5b vented came with 2 frames, a 3 and 4wrap, but I'm not sure about now days, if the kite is being picked up at the store maybe the choice is there for a 2 wrap exchange for the 3.

  10. I'm not sure what frame(s) your vented will come with, as a point of interest your exp has a 3wrap frame that interchanges with all 1.5 based revs. You may want to get a 2wrap frame with the vented rev and put that frame in your exp for the light wind days. On very strong wind days you can use the 3wrap leading edge along with the 2wrap leading edge tucked in the leading edge, making it a super strong but heavy 5wrap leading edge.

  11. Ok, back with some results. I connected my equalized lines directly to the swivel clips, kite wouldn't get off the ground too much reverse. Brought my top lines to the last knot out it got the kite off the ground inverted but still poor reverse but a lot of forward. Added a leader with knots from another set of handles to each of the top swivel clips on the kite, result = flies like a dream. One thing I'll try because I don't know if that makes a difference, is to remove the leader at the kite swivel and add it to the handle's leader.

  12. OR! Buy a 1/4" wooden dowel that's 36" long and say heck with the crazy glue. Cut the 34.2" tube down to 31" and have a spare for the 1.5. I just brought down one of my Rev 1 classics with the swivel clips, when the lawn dries out I'll fly it with a set of equalized lines, and report back.

  13. All is good. the skinny tubes could be a bit longer, mine are and my center fat tube is longer than its 2 outer tubes. The fat tubes aren't bending because of the length and the diameter, if the fat tubes was the same length as the skinny tubes they would most likely push the washers over the bridle and destroy the bridle. Fly it, you'll like it.

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