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portlandflyer

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Everything posted by portlandflyer

  1. YES IT WILL!! Someone that can help get things setup correctly and show you the "ropes" is worth their weight in gold!!! Hoping for a successful flight!!
  2. Good to hear!! Did they put you on the simulator? Helps sometimes to see things up close. But for sure you were in good hands!
  3. While in Poway, ask if the Rev simulator is up. A lesson from Lolly or someone from Rev should get things straight! While it might be tough to get lines exactly perfect, you should be able to get them closer to equal. Place all 4 loops at one end on a stake well driven into the ground. Place your handles on the lines and reasonably pull tight. Both handles should line up as closely as possible. If not redo the loop to adjust. Untie the sleeving, pull the line through as much as you think, then retie the loop. Yes it is guesswork, but with experience you start to know what amount to pull. Patience and go slow. REVflyer This is Paul's username here. Contact him using the PM system. He will gladly give you all the WOW info you should need! (He can also help with the equalizing thing!)
  4. Yep just looked at it - way too much stuff on your leaders! Think KISS - not add more!
  5. It's all good in the hood!! Learning inverted this way does 2 things - teaches you the control, plus (and this is sneaky) teaches you to hover! Can you hold it in one place? Still? Not moving? That's an inverted hover! As you move along the learning curve, hovering is something you will do all the time. Learning to do it inverted right off the bat makes all the other positions easy! Personally almost never had tops tangle in bottom lines, but I do fly way out on the ends too. So it's a non-issue here! Again - no right or wrong - just try and figure out what works for you. Something cool - share it!! But it does sound like you are overdoing your hand movements, by your description. Remember - SMALL movements first! See how little it takes to do something. Remember the sailing? Small adjustments pay off big! (PS: I grew up in Rhode Island and sailed as a kid)! Sheet too tight to the wind and lose ground? HeeHee! You've got discipline, you'll learn this too! Stick with it!!
  6. Why? John Barresi (if you haven't seen his videos go to Youtube) uses that size exclusively - and is arguably in the handful of top pilots in the world! The "B" series kites were his upgrade specs from the original 1.5 SLE - if you doubt his credentials. Many have used that size with no problems at all. (Wonder why they are included in the package?) They are the "standard" size for almost everything. Yes some of us use others, again personal preference. But I would encourage you to master those 13" first, before jumping into other sizes.
  7. You might look on the member map to find if there are any members in your area. Even if you have to make a day trip and drive a reasonable distance, it will be worth it in the long haul!
  8. Learning to fly "inverted" or upside down, means learning to "ride your brakes"! Instead of letting gravity pull the kite down out of the sky, learn to feather it down, keeping it full of air as you go. It means really how to use those handles to do this. Learning how much is just enough brake to control that downward motion and turn it from falling to flying! To get used to inverted flight try this - Put the kite upside down on the ground. Point your thumbs forward towards the kite and back up. Try to keep the kite still, not moving left, right or trying to flip over. Try to feel the small corrections needed to maintain that control. If you feel like it is being lost, step forward to land the kite back on the ground leading edge down again. Rinse, repeat. As you gain control at lower altitude, move it up some. As you get even more control keep pushing that bar higher, until you have good control at any height. Then add it to your regular flight path. 3/4" is good, unless you are not satisfied and want smaller. Some go with 1" too, it's all personal preference. Nice thing about Revs - there is very little "right or wrong" about how you setup your handles. Yes there are suggestions, but they aren't cast in stone. You just experiment until you find a combo of things that work for you. The important thing is keep trying!! Nothing replaces one thing - Time On The Lines!! The more often you can put the handles in your hands, the better you understand the kite - and how you interact with it.
  9. If you can meet up with others before you buy, it will help you decide on what is best suited for your area. Experienced pilots know how to setup, fly, and can make recommendations on what is best suited. They can be an invaluable tool in helping you along the path - I suggest you use them as much as possible! Might even have some good used gear! But a warning - this is no "one perfect kite fits all" situation! That's why there are so many different models in each series, to match the correct kite to the wind conditions of that day! Good Luck!
  10. Too many fliers (experienced too) expect the kite to do all the work for them! They want to just stand there, flatfooted, and have the sail fly. Sorry - ain't happening! You have to learn to move back and forth, recycling your ground. Backing up to drive it up, walking forward as you turn it over and controlling the fall. It becomes a rhythm. I know EXACTLY how you feel about smooth vs choppy winds! I fly regularly in the Portland, OR area and very seldom do we have anything that remotely resembles smooth. Luckily the coast is only a couple hour drive from me (2), and I make that drive as often as possible! That said - you will become a better pilot if you CAN fly in those bad conditions!! Like you said - anyone can fly in perfect smooth winds. It's more - can you still fly in the challenging conditions?? Short lines help in chasing those wind switches around. But be prepared for everything to happen - MUCH quicker!! Short lines = a small window! Making them up - be sure to equalize the 4 lines in the set. Neutral is your friend! Hard to launch with longer pigtails? Did you preload the sail before launch by stepping back and getting the sail full? Have you added a step back to your launch routine? Again - switching things is a change - did you do anything to adapt? Are they exactly the same length? Are the knots exactly spaced apart? See other thread on my opinion. Yes it is challenging, but so rewarding when you get it! You didn't just get in that sailboat and automatically figure it out - now did you? You learned the skills needed to make it go fast - point taken?
  11. Handle lengths are measured from the raw tube length BEFORE bending! I'm pretty sure your handles are 13", at least that is what is usually in the package. Are you measuring them as they are now? But your interpretation is correct - smaller does = less input. Some of us do use longer or shorter handles - I myself use 3 sets - 13", 14", and 15". I use the 14" as my default everyday pair, 15" in lighter winds, and 13" in windier conditions. B2s are, I believe, paired with 11" and really old Rev 2s had 9" handles! Them are little! More important than handle length is replacing the stock leaders at the top. Let me find the link to the thread, it has pix and some explanation of why it is done. http://www.revkites.com/forum/topic/4409-my-leaders-your-thoughts/
  12. Not much of a problem here - my local kite store will sell you whatever length you ask for! If you make your own - be sure to make the knots, as close as possible, the same distance apart and to match them, side to side! Or, on Kitelife, you can buy pre made leaders done on a jig to guarantee an almost perfect match, leader to leader . Your choice!
  13. Mind if I ask a few questions? Flying experience? Have you flown before? What type? SLK, dualie?? It will help to figure out if you have any habits that might need to be "changed". Set up of the kite. Might take some pix of everything - kite, rods, attached lineset. handle setup, etc. You have mentioned an EXP, setup should be pretty straight forward for one. Equalizing the lines. Take all 4 lines and place them on some common point, a stake will do. Run them out and untangle. Hook them up to the handles and gently pull back against the stake. (not too hard, don't pull out the stake). Look to see if both handles line up exactly the same. This is important! If there is one long or short, it will cause the kite to steer itself despite your best efforts. Untie the sleeve on the offending line(s) and adjust, until all 4 are even. Now you are ready for a neutral flight. You haven't mentioned how much wind you went out in - might it have been too much? While the kites have stated wind ranges, a bit of experience is really needed to fly at either end of the range. A good learners wind would be around 10 mph, enough for the kite to fly easily and you concentrate on learning the controls. Too much or not enough, means you not only are trying to learn, but also trying to keep the kite airborne while doing so. From your description of your experiences I would guess maybe the high end? I'll stop here and see where this goes, before adding more. Sorry to hear you've had a tough learning experience so far, but there are many experienced fliers here that are glad to help! Feel free to ask more!! PM sent on some info!
  14. Adjusting lines is easy - put all 4 loops on one stake or common spot. Unwind and straighten out. Put on handles and pull back the slack. If the handles don't line up perfectly, adjust the offending line by untieing the sleeve, pull out some line, retie. Not that hard. By windy - how windy? Is it possible you took your kite out in too much wind? That is why we have vented versions - to continue flying in high winds. There is no one kite, perfect for all conditions - sorry. By trimming, I'm guessing you mean adjusting your flying lines to the knots on the top leaders. That means you have either a "B" or New York Minute to do that, or you are willing to make your own. Stock leaders on a SLE or EXP 1.5 are not adjustable. Longer top leaders allow you to adjust for wind conditions. The one biggest piece of advice I can give - learn to Give To The Kite!! If, no matter what you do, the kite is going to crash - LET IT! DO NOT PULL!!! Pulling only drives the kite HARDER into the ground. Step forward, even let go of the handles, but just let the kite fall. Better to go straighten out, than find it broken!
  15. I wouldn't be surprised if you found one of the line attachments had tangled around either itself or around the rest of the bridle. Sometimes in our haste to try something new, we miss something very obvious to a practiced eye. Anyway hope it is just a tangled up leg, there should be little difference in how this kite performs over what you had before!
  16. Kent knows his Revs, so listen up on that! The only thing about checking the bridle down legs together, is learning the knot sequence to tie it back together (vertical legs to horizontal piece). Reattaching to the caps is pretty straight forward. Pretty sure Watty did a video of how to swap a bridle, you might use some of that info if you need to retie anything.
  17. I think I saw something about Rev updating their product info soon. Pretty sure the Reflex will get added to the line, along with any color combo changes, other additions or subtractions to the line, etc.
  18. You could just replace it with a regular stock bridle - only adds a few grams! Light weight is not the "end all, be all" for SUL kites. Wing loads, weight to sail ratio, etc, figure more importantly than just sheer light weight! Plus there is still technique! Lightest kite in the world doesn't help if you can't use it properly!
  19. SUL bridle is made from 90# flying line. That's why SR had a slipping knot - the line is slick. Putting a drop of nail polish on the knots will keep them from slipping!
  20. Yep - they'll bow, but not so much to break. All the race rods have a bit more flex than any "wrap" rod, but like John said, they are just about indestructible. I use my set almost exclusively in my X/V with no issues at all. Really you have 2 sets that are almost equal in strength, just different in flex. What "B" model do you have? I ask because unless you really love the graphic, I would get something I didn't have (mid, F/V), before I got another standard. Increases your ability to adjust based on winds. IMHO!
  21. You would either need to contact a Rev dealer or Lolly herself for prices. They are not a special order item, but they also are not overly common at some shops. Some just carry basics, others more specialized gear. Not too surprised at not finding them! If you can't find a store - try this number - 1-858-679-5785
  22. John - never tried green race in a Rev 1 or Zen. Several have said to try some - but not on my budget. My preferred setup is 2 wrap center with black race wingtips and Zen verts. Lighter and stiffer, plus a set of "magic sticks" to limit flex even more. PS: already had the RRs as I was trying to lighten up my Rev 1. Did get some diamonds for last year as a team thing - like them, but use them only in my SUL with sticks too. Almost a mini Zen. They are the newer Green Label trimmed rods, not the older ones. I'd like to try Zen 1.5 rods to see if they are any stiffer as a shorter set. I feel the Zen rods for the Zen are way too flexible for me at that length - shorter - maybe?
  23. Diamond rods = light, stiff. Zen rods in 1.5 size = ?? Green race = heavier, but stronger. Not my choice for light wind. I use mine in my X/V. Never used the "french bridle" on my kites, but have tried one. Would need more time on it to really feel any advantage. I'll admit to having a full complement of Revs from Zen to X/V, so I am prepared to use the "correct" sail in any wind. Really comes down to your wants and budget!! Good Flying!
  24. When you talk to Lolly - don't forget to ask what strength lines and handles to use with one!
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