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How to make new lines


renwickr

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I've seen a few posts on this around here somewhere, including this one: http://www.revkites.com/forum/index.php?s=...post&p=2783

Searching the forum might yield something for you, although it will probably take time to sort through the results. Shame we don't seem to have a sticky anywhere about making lines.

I've personally made all my Rev linesets, except for the 90lb 85' LPG set that my first Rev came with. I've made two 90lb 120' sets, two 150lb 50' sets, one 150lb 120' set, and one 50lb 25' set. I learned how to make linesets just from reading various forum posts here; as I recall, there are quite a few good, very thorough guides. Ergo, I won't go on at length about the techniques I used, because it would be unnecessarily duplicative of what others have posted. Instead, I'll just share a few things I learned from the experience of making my own sets, which, as I recall, are not in any of the existing posts:

  • Make sure you use eight exactly equal lengths of sleeving for your lines. Using equal lengths of sleeving will help you tie equal end loops, which will in turn greatly assist you in having properly equalized lines right out of the gate, without having to mess around with forceps, tape measures, and the like.
  • Make your sets indoors if you can do so. I've made a lot of sets after hours at work using the long hallways outside my office. If you lack sufficient room, you can just loop the lines around smooth objects like doorknobs and such. Making lines indoors is much more comfortable and leads to fewer potential mishaps (snags on environmental objects, dog attacks, passersby tangling things up, etc.) than doing it outside.
  • Leave a little extra line dangling out of the end of the sleeving on one end of the lines, and properly finish the other end. Use the finished end to attach to the kite, and make any adjustments from the end with the extra line. This way, you minimize snags at the handle end but can easily adjust for line creep without having to get out the sleeving needle and possibly lose it in the field.
  • Save money on sleeving by buying only one color (white) and marking different lines/sets with different color sharpies.
  • Make sure that each line (not just each pair of lines) in a set has individual markings that allow you to very easily distinguish one line from another. This helps a ton when untangling lines later.
  • Not a linemaking tip per se, but when you do get tangles, it's much, much easier to undo them if you leave the lines attached to both the kite and the handles. It helps keep tangles from getting worse as you're trying to undo them. (A common problem, at least for me.)

Have fun!

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I've seen a few posts on this around here somewhere, including this one: http://www.revkites.com/forum/index.php?s=...post&p=2783

Searching the forum might yield something for you, although it will probably take time to sort through the results. Shame we don't seem to have a sticky anywhere about making lines.

I've personally made all my Rev linesets, except for the 90lb 85' LPG set that my first Rev came with. I've made two 90lb 120' sets, two 150lb 50' sets, one 150lb 120' set, and one 50lb 25' set. I learned how to make linesets just from reading various forum posts here; as I recall, there are quite a few good, very thorough guides. Ergo, I won't go on at length about the techniques I used, because it would be unnecessarily duplicative of what others have posted. Instead, I'll just share a few things I learned from the experience of making my own sets, which, as I recall, are not in any of the existing posts:

  • Make sure you use eight exactly equal lengths of sleeving for your lines. Using equal lengths of sleeving will help you tie equal end loops, which will in turn greatly assist you in having properly equalized lines right out of the gate, without having to mess around with forceps, tape measures, and the like.
  • Make your sets indoors if you can do so. I've made a lot of sets after hours at work using the long hallways outside my office. If you lack sufficient room, you can just loop the lines around smooth objects like doorknobs and such. Making lines indoors is much more comfortable and leads to fewer potential mishaps (snags on environmental objects, dog attacks, passersby tangling things up, etc.) than doing it outside.
  • Leave a little extra line dangling out of the end of the sleeving on one end of the lines, and properly finish the other end. Use the finished end to attach to the kite, and make any adjustments from the end with the extra line. This way, you minimize snags at the handle end but can easily adjust for line creep without having to get out the sleeving needle and possibly lose it in the field.
  • Save money on sleeving by buying only one color (white) and marking different lines/sets with different color sharpies.
  • Make sure that each line (not just each pair of lines) in a set has individual markings that allow you to very easily distinguish one line from another. This helps a ton when untangling lines later.
  • Not a linemaking tip per se, but when you do get tangles, it's much, much easier to undo them if you leave the lines attached to both the kite and the handles. It helps keep tangles from getting worse as you're trying to undo them. (A common problem, at least for me.)

Have fun!

Great advice. Thanks a million and I will give it my best shot.

Cheers,

Rich (aka Trikky) :o)

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dump the sleeving entirely and eliminate most of your tangles during set-up

(instead use a stopper knot placed into the loop)

I've tried this method (with my 25' 50lb set) and ended up switching to sleeving. Yes, sleeving does add a potentially nasty tangle point, but gives you so much convenience in return (not only is it much easier to attach/detach lines, but the knots stay put without needing CA glue or some other method, and it's much easier to untie knots for adjustment or to fix breakages). I find that the "leave the line attached to the handles/kite when untangling" method I describe above tends to dramatically reduce the incidence of sleeving-related tangles. But Rev flying is a totally personal thing; as everyone says, it's best to experiment and use whatever method works for you. :sq-cyclops:

Plus, using JB's winding/unwinding method — http://www.revkites.com/forum/index.php?s=...ost&p=57764 — I tend to get minimal tangles these days. Caveat: I think JB winds straight onto the winder; I always figure-eight. I think figure-eighting is better, but again, one should experiment and use whatever works.

Edited by kairusan
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HI all,

Does anyone have a link to a good howto for making up new lines?

Cheers,

Trikky

Trikky, here is a link that helped me with sleeving the first lineset I built. I've built several using Con Engels method since the first. Some people prefer to thread the sleeving onto the needle, then burn the end to keep it from un-raveling. I haven't tried that yet myself.

http://windstarkites.com/FlyLine-Sleeving.htm

It is important to get the lines stretched out & the same length so you may want to only tie one over hand knot in each loop as you'll have to undo knots to adjust line lengths. After they are all the same you could consider tieing the second knot.

Welcome to building your own. It's relatively easy & rewarding. B)

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Welcome to the forum Tricky.Ile have a go in my best Lancastrian speak.At explaining how i make a `120ft quad set.I recently made.12 Quad sets for our team in Less than four hours.With some help from the team.ALL ARE BANG ON.Ther maybe better ways,quicker ways,but what i do know is.It works consistently doing it the way i was shown

Cut sleeving,nine lengths at exactly 12inchs .Do this before you venture outside.They need tobe all the same length.This is important.Consistentcy is the key when making lines.All your knots,measurements and cuts.Need tobe consistent,some people seel the ends of the sleeving to stop fraying[burn ends].I dont.Buy good quality sleeving and cut with a Sharp Blade when making them up.

you will need.

line,sleeving,sleever[guitar or piano wire will do, if you havent shop bought a sleever]a long tape measure[125ft measure or more in length],four ground stakes,a sharp blade,a perminent marker and winders

Place your first piece of sleeving on the sleever,place line through sleever loop and pull line through.Leave 1 inch hanging out of the end of the sleeving.Tie a knot[overhand knot] in this end.As close to the end of the sleeving as poss,without going past on to the inch of line hanging.Smooth the sleeving along the line then.This stops bunching and keeps the sleeving tight to the lines.Knot the other end of the sleeving.Again as close to the end of the sleeving as poss.Bring both knots Together and form a loop.Knot the loop,bringing the knots tight and close together.Keeping everything even.A simple Overhand knot is used on all knots.You should now have a secure loop at one end.

Drive a stake into the ground well.Place loop over stake and run line out to 120FT 10inchs.Drive another stake into the ground well.Cut your line at exactly the measured distance,Make sure first,its not snagged,fouled or caut on anything between the two points.When cutting.Make sure the pressure or tension is good.More important.You will need to be able to repeat the same tension on all four lines consistantly.Sleeve then the newly cut end.Useing the same method as before.

You should have one finished line.Drive a stake into the ground at both ends of the measured area again.Alongside your first pair of stakes and place the line over the newly placed stakes.Put the line made.Under Tension.A good amount of tension and leave to pre stretch.

Make three more lines up as above and stretch these out also.

You now need to wind onto your winder/winders,but before you do.Being able to recognise tops and bottoms is a good idea at this point.Seperate into pairs and check ther even lengths[equalise them].They should be equal.No more than 1/4 inch between the longest and shortest.

Mark one line at both ends from each pair with the black marker.Be neat and dont over dye the lines.Be carefull not to mark the other two by accident.

Now wind onto winder/winders or better still Build a rev and fly on them.After a few good flights on them.Swop bottoms and top lines over.Fly again a couple of times and then check the lengths and equalise as required. After equalising all four lines.This time tie two knots in all the loops .This locks the loop more securly.

JOB DONE,

BRIAN...

Edited by big bri
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Nine lengths???

I was waiting for someone to ask.Had a feeling it would be either your good self or Balloo.

Sods law we call it Tom.

Ther will be one sleeve that refuses to behave.Always is.A spare one saves trudging back to get another. ;) .Sort of a Bakers Dozen.Without actually being a Dozen.

BRIAN...

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I was waiting for someone to ask.Had a feeling it would be either your good self or Balloo.

Sods law we call it Tom.

Ther will be one sleeve that refuses to behave.Always is.A spare one saves trudging back to get another. ;) .Sort of a Bakers Dozen.Without actually being a Dozen.

BRIAN...

I would think that someone who had achieved the higher level of line enlightenment, namely infinity winding (figure-8 winding to lesser mortals), would have ultimate mind control over mere pieces of sleeve material.

Cheers,

Tom

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I would think that someone who had achieved the higher level of line enlightenment, namely infinity winding (figure-8 winding to lesser mortals), would have ultimate mind control over mere pieces of sleeve material.

Cheers,

Tom

The last couple of line sets I made up I used 2 smooth stakes at the set length and wound the lines around them to get equal tension before marking and cutting. The sleeves were previously threaded and positioned appropriately.

Worked a treat.

Felix

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If I don't want to do the initial set up outside for 120' lines I use an eight foot board with a dowel at either end. Wrap the line around the dowels 15 times and you have a set of 120' lines. I set the dowels just shy of eight feet apart to compensate for the diameter of the dowels so the length would still come out to 120'.

-Alden

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I have a fail-safe method of making lines.

I call Theresa at The Kite Shoppe and they show up on my doorstep three days later.

Easy, no hassle.

Clever that, isn't it? For standard line lengths it has to be the best way.

Ironically, The Decs (pre 2008 events) wound our own (125ft) and they lasted 10 years, just like the kites...

Felix

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When I make my 120's I calculate for the sleeving and knots. When I am done the length from end of loop to other end of loop is 120' give or take an inch :)

I am curious of the actual length of a bought set of 120's? Do you actually get 120 from loop to loop?

I guess the length is only critical if you team fly otherwise the length only needs to be approximate.

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